Cartier’s latest watch launches at this year’s Watches and Wonders fair not only showcased the maison’s commitment to elegance, innovation, and timeless design, but also the craftsmanship and dedication that went into each piece.
Pierre Rainero, director of image, style, and heritage, reflects on this year’s novelties: “As always, we are exploring various possibilities offered by our traditional and historical watch shapes. Specifically with the Santos and Tortue models, we are experimenting with different dials and sizes. Through our eyes as a jeweller, we are introducing new, unexpected shapes while remaining true to the essence of Cartier.”
The Santos-Dumont Rewind, for example, is more than just a design exercise; it represents Cartier’s approach to time. The numbers on this watch are reversed, so the time is read backwards. With magic as its creative theme for 2024, this reflects the maison’s vision of creating beautiful objects that bring joy to people. Additionally, by highlighting its playfulness in measuring time, Cartier also pushes traditional watch design boundaries and inspires the audience with its pioneering spirit.
“The Santos is emblematic of our vision in terms of aesthetics. The square with rounded angles and integrated attachments was revolutionary at its inception. It reveals our philosophy that every design should be strong and open doors to new possibilities. Since 1904, it has given birth to so many variations, balancing sporty and elegant dimensions,” says Rainero. He emphasises its importance, referring to the collection as a defining icon for Cartier that epitomises its watchmaking vision.
Rainero takes us on a journey through the evolution of the Santos, highlighting three pivotal milestones: the initial launch in 1904, the 1978 introduction of a metal bracelet that modernised the watch for everyday wear, and the creation of two distinct paths for the Santos-Dumont and Santos de Cartier models.
Each milestone is a testament to Cartier’s adaptability to evolving customer preferences, which focus on convenience, sophistication, and versatility.
Rainero also emphasises Cartier’s commitment to innovation with the introduction of the QuickSwitch system, first patented with the Roadster in 2002 and later reimagined for the Santos, demonstrating the brand’s dedication to enhancing the user experience.
In addition, he discusses other Santos novelties, including the four Santos de Cartier models in steel with anthracite grey or brown sunray brushed dials and the three colourful Santos-Dumont models with lacquered platinum or gold cases and bezels. “We explore different colours, treatments, and nuances in our dials… these updates refresh the collection and highlight our blend of heritage and modernity,” he explains.
The Tortue collection, the star at its Watches and Wonders showing, underscores Cartier’s historical significance and ongoing quest for essentiality in design. Born in 1912, the Tortue represents Cartier’s pursuit of purity in form. Rainero elaborates on the evolution of the Tortue Monopoussoir, noting its variations and the philosophical underpinnings behind each iteration.
The original model from 1928, the 1998 CPCP version, and the latest Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph each showcase different design philosophies, while adhering to its commitment to essentiality and precision.
Cartier embraces the challenge of maintaining the heritage and authenticity of collections such as the Santos and Tortue while meeting contemporary tastes and driving innovation. According to Rainero, the purity of its shapes makes them timeless. “Our sense of beauty evolves with different periods of time. We propose different proportions and dials while staying faithful to the original intention of the designers. The capacity of our designs to evolve ensures their relevance across decades.”
The Santos and Tortue launches at Watches and Wonders 2024 exemplify Cartier’s innovative spirit and enduring legacy. By thoughtfully evolving and deeply respecting its heritage, the maison continues to create watches that are both timeless and contemporary.
