There is one constant truth in fashion and design: trends are cyclical. Styles ebb and flow, gracefully reinterpreting bygone eras with a modern twist. This notion of time as an eternal continuum lies at the heart of Cartier’s latest watchmaking efforts.
In this ongoing renaissance, the past serves both as a muse and mentor. Iconic silhouettes from the 1900s, 1910s, and 1970s resurface with renewed vigour, seamlessly combining heritage and modern sensibilities.
As creative director of Cartier’s watch and jewellery divisions, Marie-Laure Cérède ensures every design radiates timeless elegance.
Her journey at Cartier started in 2002 when she joined as a watchmaking product manager. She later spent 14 years at Harry Winston before returning to Cartier as deputy director of watchmaking. In 2017, she became the timepieces creation director. Today, she oversees the design and innovation of the maison’s watch and jewellery divisions.
During her time at Cartier, she has consistently delivered successful creations, ranging from beloved classics like the Tank Cintrée to contemporary favourites like the trendy Tank Must. Yet, she remains steadfastly humble, attributing these commercial triumphs to the collective efforts of a dedicated team. She emphasises her mission: “My goal is not to create impact. It is to enrich our patrimony with new shapes, contrasts, and audacious designs to introduce tomorrow’s vocabulary.”
Cérède highlights Cartier’s ever-evolving watchmaking aesthetic, which seamlessly integrates the past, present, and future, as exemplified by three of this year’s most prominent timepieces.
Baignoire
A vintage oval-shaped watch from 1973, the Baignoire has been revived to take centre stage in the consciousness of contemporary fashion. “The question was always: how to address the younger generation without changing the watch’s design, while successfully projecting this icon into the future?” shares Cérède.
Instinctively, she turned to jewellery as a creative solution. “We examined the art of stacking jewellery, a quintessential Cartier style,” she explains. By incorporating a bangle into the Baignoire mini, Cartier ingeniously reinvents the Baignoire, making it both a timepiece and exquisite jewellery. It now embodies a sensuous ribbon of gold that gracefully encircles the wrist, with a sapphire crystal glass that curves elegantly and a case that snuggles against the wrist.
In keeping with its design ethos, it is meant to be worn with other iconic Cartier creations, such as the Love or Juste Un Clou bracelets that are often paired together. However, in this instance, incorporating a watch into the ensemble, she notes, would be “a bolder declaration of style”.
Cartier Privé Tank Normale
She adopts a similar approach with the Tank Normale, joining the prestigious Cartier Privé collection alongside the Crash watch, the Tank Cintrée, the Tonneau, the Tank Asymétrique, the Cloche, and the Tank Chinoise.
These coveted timepieces are dedicated to commemorating and exploring Cartier’s legendary models through limited-edition, numbered watches.
“The Tank Normale is so inspirational. I like how it’s pure and understated… but I asked myself, how can we add to it? Adding lacquer or something similar would not fit the aesthetic,” says Cérède.
She ultimately preserved the characteristics of the original Tank—its proportions, the bevelled sapphire crystal, the Roman numeral dial with an inner railroad track, and the discreet signature inside the VII. Her design, however, introduced a wonderfully flexible bracelet, marking a significant first for the Cartier Privé collection.
“It’s strong and rough, but refined and flexible at the same time. Despite being tactile, it is neither too thin nor cheap. For the platinum version, we also used brushed platinum so it would look different and more understated,” she explains.
Santos-Dumont Skeleton
An even bolder example of Cartier’s ability to fuse heritage with innovation is the Santos-Dumont Skeleton watch, a homage to the 1904 model crafted for aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. Not only does the watch pay tribute, but it also adapts to contemporary sensibilities.
In addition to its slender design, it introduces the 9629 MC automatic skeleton calibre, which features a micro-rotor shaped like a replica of Santos-Dumont’s 1907 Demoiselle plane. This symbol appears to soar over the globe, enhancing its impact as a modern testament to heritage and innovation.
“We want this watch to remain elegant but also meaningful. It has to encapsulate the myth of Alberto Santos- Dumont and this is why you see the Demoiselle airplane oscillating on the dial like a compass. The use of lacquer here also mirrors Santos-Dumont’s dandy style,” says Cérède.
