Since 2009, Patrice Leguéreau has led Chanel’s Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, channelling the bold and innovative spirit of Gabrielle Chanel through more than a thousand pieces.
In June, Chanel unveiled Leguéreau’s latest tribute to the maison’s legacy in Monte Carlo: an 80-piece high jewellery collection inspired by the world of sports. “I drew inspiration from Chanel’s sporty style, which is so integral to the house’s history—the elegance of the line and the freedom of movement,” said Leguéreau.
and rubies.
Indeed, Mademoiselle revolutionised women’s fashion by prioritising comfort and ease of movement, streamlining silhouettes and championing functional fabrics like jersey. “From the beginning, her aesthetic was shaped by this sporty allure,” Leguéreau added, further referencing the dedicated “Sport” atelier she created within her couture house in 1921.
This same spirit of movement and liberation informs his new Haute Joaillerie Sport collection. “This collection celebrates not just the beauty of sport, but its passion, challenges, and triumphs—combining creative freedom, technical brilliance, and extraordinary gemstones,” he explained.
The collection is divided into six chapters, each with its own identity but unified by a singular vision. “Similar to an athlete preparing for a performance, there is that moment where preparation meets visualisation,” he said.
“You see the outcome in your mind, and when it all comes together, it looks exactly as imagined.” Leguéreau’s drawings were much more than blueprints—they were the first tangible manifestations of his inspiration.
Sports illustrated
Jewellery inspired by sweatshirts? Oui, indeed. Leguéreau reimagined athletic elements, transforming them into high jewellery creations that meld elegance, movement, and utility. In the Sweater necklace, for example, a humble hoodie drawstring is transformed into an object of desire.
The utilitarian sports cord is reimagined as two tubular gold chains that drape elegantly down the neck, complete with diamond-set aglets and lacquered gold grommets. Each link is painstakingly crafted by master jewellers, with the necklace further adorned with sapphires, diamonds, and vibrant red lacquer.
and sapphires.
This innovation continues in the Gold Slider earrings, where grommet-shaped onyx components attached to diamond-set tube chains dangle suggestively from the earlobes. The chains are detachable, leaving behind pear-shaped rubies weighing approximately 4.30 cts and offering a sporty elegance that is versatile and refined.
The athletic influence extends to other pieces, including the Quilted Stars necklace, where Chanel’s iconic quilted motif evokes the tactile quality of high-performance sportswear.
Embedded in a supple mesh of gold, diamonds, sapphires, and onyx is a 7.06-ct emerald-cut yellow diamond serving as a centrepiece and clasp. The number 5—a part of its jewellery lexicon since 2021—is rendered in black onyx, mimicking the numerals seen on precision instruments like chronometers.
SIGNS AND SYMBOLISMS
Beyond Mademoiselle’s beloved stars, another familiar symbol emerges. Her zodiac sign, the lion, is a recurring emblem in Chanel’s high jewellery collections, where it often evokes themes of strength and protection. In Haute Joaillerie Sport, it graces two brooches. One is inspired by the embroidered patches found on sports jackets, and the other, the Print Lion brooch, fuses other important symbols with the lion’s powerful presence.
This piece features a diamond solitaire, the quilted motif, and stars, a tribute to the founder’s love of diamonds, which she once described as “the highest value for the smallest volume”. Featuring the number 1932, which refers to the pivotal year when she launched her only high jewellery collection, it is framed in black lacquer to honour her love for black.
A Chanel first, the house’s high jewellery designs now carry the Chanel signature. Some versions have the name spelt out and engraved on onyx plaques, while others have it as lattice with the letters artfully interwoven.
Peak Performance
Leguéreau’s seamless integration of Chanel’s iconic codes reflected his ability to push creative boundaries. These familiar elements are not mere embellishments but functional components that add depth to each design. “What’s fascinating is how the technical savoir faire approaches jewellery from a functional standpoint, creating a distinctive aesthetic,” he said.
“Linkage systems form flat graphic surfaces, while quick-release fittings inspired by sports equipment become integral clasps—no longer hidden but at the forefront of the design,” he explained.
The Mademoiselle Lock debuts in the high jewellery collection, a feature typically found on handbags. It is reinvented as a decorative, functional clasp on the Quilted 2.55 necklace, rendered in diamonds, gold, and lacquer. With a 2.01-ct diamond at its centre, it blends into diamond-set, black-lacquered crosses. In a matching bracelet, the lock sits opposite a watch dial, allowing the wearer to reveal or conceal the time.
Leguéreau brought a playful yet innovative twist to the collection by reimagining the number 5 as a mousqueton clasp, turning it into a versatile tool for transformation.
On the Sporty 5 Collector brooch, it secures four removable charms, giving the wearer the freedom to personalise them; on the earrings, it unlocks and reconfigures components, allowing for multiple styling options; and on the Sporty 5 Black & White necklace, the clasp’s positioning dictates the necklace’s length, offering both functional and visual variation.
Transformability is a cornerstone of the collection. Rings swivel to reveal different stones or come with detachable elements, offering two distinct looks in one piece.
Through an ingenious mechanism, a spectacular ring with a 10.25-ct emerald flattens and transforms into a pendant, providing another layer of flexibility. This level of innovation exemplified Leguéreau’s approach to jewellery—not just as static adornments, but as dynamic pieces that evolve with the wearer.
Winning hues
“This is the maison’s most beautiful gemstone ensemble to date,” said Leguéreau. “It is remarkable not just for its variety, but for the unparalleled set of sapphires.” The five rare Kashmir sapphires—a first for Chanel and renowned for their velvety texture and deep brilliance—were sourced over seven years and form what Leguéreau called a “peerless ensemble”.
The largest, a 17.18-ct sapphire, stars in a transformable ring set with diamonds, while the second-largest, a 10.15-ct stone, takes centre stage on the Graphic Line necklace. It is composed of rubies, onyx, and mixed-cut diamonds in a bold chevron design echoing Gabrielle Chanel’s Comète necklace from 1932.
“The precision of the gemstone cuts is extreme and flawless,” Leguéreau explained, “with each gem graduated to create the sleek, taut lines I envisioned. They embody the collection’s pursuit of absolute excellence.”
Throughout the collection, colour plays a crucial role. To create striking contrasts, Leguéreau used gemstones with bold, distinctive hues. He also incorporated materials such as carbon, aluminium, ceramic, and lacquer, which required extensive research and development.
“Polishing aluminium on small surfaces proved particularly challenging,” said Leguéreau, as did achieving the right finish on ceramic and shaping lacquered geometric forms like circles, crosses, and chevrons while maintaining uniformity across all pieces.
Despite such challenges, he saw them as essential to the sporty aesthetic. Leguéreau’s ability to harmonise sports-inspired functionality with high jewellery craftsmanship was refreshingly bold and brilliantly creative. Each piece reflects Chanel’s philosophy of freedom in movement, reinforced by an intelligent fusion of technology, history, and artistry.
Chanel confirmed Leguéreau’s passing on Nov. 13, stating, “Driven by an extraordinary passion and energy, Patrice Leguéreau never ceased to pay homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s visionary imprint.” The French fashion house highlighted the diverse themes he explored, from the iconic camellia and lion to pearls and beyond. His legacy will continue to inspire, serving as a testament to his passion and the profound mark he left on Chanel and the world of fine jewellery.
