Exactly two years ago, Chanel reopened the doors to its watches and fine jewellery boutique at 18 Place Vendôme.
Since its grand reopening, many have passed through its imposing blue doors, marvelling at the lavish interiors envisioned by the renowned American architect Peter Marino. Nestled in the heart of the world’s high jewellery hub, the renovated three-storey building is the epicentre of Chanel’s watches and fine jewellery universe. It houses the flagship boutique, creation studios, a high jewellery workshop and the Patrimoine collection.
Located in the basement and accessible only to its most privileged clients is a hidden sanctuary that safeguards approximately 800 watches and fine jewellery creations.From Gabrielle Chanel’s time to the latest designs by Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, and Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watch Creation Studio, these treasures are carefully tucked in white lacquered drawers and black-velvet-lined glass vitrines.
Throughout the collection, the past and present intertwine to weave a narrative that transcends time and pays homage to the maison’s eternal muse. Even though it lacks a centuries-old jewellery heritage and royal clientele from a bygone era, it possesses something just as impressive: the essence of Gabrielle Chanel. Recognised as a trailblazing couturier and icon of female empowerment, her unconventional approach laid the foundation for Chanel’s jewellery heritage in 1932.
It was during that pivotal year that she ventured into uncharted territory, answering an invitation from the London Diamond Corporation to create a diamond jewellery collection amid a financial crisis. Her contribution proved transformative.
Christened Bijoux de Diamants, her creations exuded a refreshing charm with their claspless, lightweight construction. A visionary couturier, she also introduced the concept of a cohesive theme and devised an original method of displaying jewels that set them ablaze with dramatic effect. Despite never launching another collection, she continued to offer jewellery to clients until 1971.
The preservation of Gabrielle’s artistic legacy became paramount when Chanel established its Fine Jewelry division in 1993. Its mission was the search for the elusive sold pieces from the Bijoux de Diamants collection. Faced with the challenge of limited archival materials, the Patrimoine department conducted a comprehensive quest. Researchers used modern digitisation methods to extract crucial details from over 340 press articles, photographs, and a Pathé newsreel of the 1932 show.
With the help of a genealogist, the team traced descendants of exhibition attendees, looking for potential leads. Their perseverance bore fruit: two of the 47 jewellery pieces documented in 1932 resurfaced.
The Plume brooch now resides in a private collection, while the iconic Comète brooch was successfully acquired by the house at an auction in Geneva in 2000. This acquisition is just one of the 39 pieces of jewellery designed by Gabrielle and purchased by Chanel for the archive collection.
As the search continues for more of her original creations, the maison’s creation team has been diligently crafting re-editions of her designs. Forming an integral component of the Patrimoine collection, these encompass fine jewellery pieces and selections from the original Bijoux de Diamants.
From 1993 to 2015, Chanel painstakingly produced 36 identical re-editions from this iconic collection. Among them are notable pieces like the Nœud necklaces and the Franges necklace that was famously worn as a tiara by a mannequin at the Bijoux de Diamants exhibition in 1932. This pivotal moment highlighted the importance of versatile and multifunctional jewellery designs.
As the narrative of Chanel’s jewellery heritage continues to unfold, the Patrimoine collection continues to evolve with the addition of contemporary high jewellery creations, including the recent Tweed de Chanel, as well as those that explore new creative themes like Coromandel screens, the lion and wheat. To date, it boasts 132 pieces created between 1993 and 2023, each imbued with Gabrielle’s essence.
From 2012 onwards, Chanel expanded its prestigious Patrimoine collection with exceptional creations showcasing the maison’s expertise in high jewellery craftsmanship. Among these is the Constellation du Lion necklace, introduced in 2012 as an homage to Gabrielle’s star sign. Featuring a magnificent 32-ct yellow diamond and a stunning 307-ct carved golden rutilated quartz, it exemplifies Chanel’s commitment to working with only the most precious materials.
Another standout piece is the 55.55 Necklace from Collection N°5, unveiled in 2021 to celebrate the centenary of Chanel’s iconic perfume. Adorned with a flawless 55.55-ct D-FL Type IIa custom-cut diamond, it epitomises audaciousness and opulence.
In 2023, Chanel further solidified its legacy by adding the Tweed Couture plastron, a tribute to its iconic fabric. Crafted from rose gold and platinum threads and adorned with pearls and precious stones, this masterpiece embodies the timeless elegance and refinement synonymous with the maison.
Today, Chanel’s archive serves not only as a repository of Gabrielle’s legacy but as a vibrant living heritage—a dynamic testament to her influence and the maison’s evolving prowess in jewellery. Within these walls, where time converges, the indomitable spirit of Gabrielle Chanel is palpable, finding expression in every cherished piece.
