I never would have guessed that a simple sea urchin snack on roasted sourdough bread would become one of my meal’s highlights. This flavour-packed dish stood out at a recent four-hands dinner at Araya featuring Francisco Araya and guest chef Stefan Stiller of Taian Table.
It is also Stiller’s favourite creation from his Shanghai and Guangzhou restaurants. The former has three Michelin stars, while the latter has two. “The quality and sweetness of the uni, the crunch of the bread, and the umami of the brown butter sauce. There is a lot going on in this snack.”
Originally from Germany, Stiller has worked in F&B for over 40 years. His Taian Table menu changes every six weeks to showcase China’s seasons. “Because it is a big country, China has many micro-seasons, and I draw inspiration from its produce and the vendors who provide us with great products throughout the year,” he explains.
Seafood is by far his favourite ingredient because of its versatility and delicate flavours. His love for this is clearly demonstrated in these highly recommended restaurants.
Tantris, Munich
The two-Michelin-starred restaurant serves the best fine-dining cuisine in the city, says Stiller. In keeping with its legendary 1970s aesthetic, bold orange and black design elements run through the establishment. Chef Benjamin Chmura’s menu features bold dishes packed with sharp and tangy flavours. A must-try is the Petit Bateau, an aromatic dish featuring turbot, mussels, and saffron.
Schweine Schulze, Celle
Stiller’s favourite whenever he visits his mother in the small town between Hamburg and Hanover, the charming restaurant serves traditional North German cuisine, including Schnitzel with Crispy Pommes Frites and Salad and juicy rump steaks. Schweine Schulze, Celle’s oldest restaurant, has been run by the same family since 1970. Its interior, from the vintage photos to the antique furniture, exudes history.
Elkano, Getaria
In the village of Getaria along the coast of Basque country, Elkano is a short drive from San Sebastián, Spain. Wood-fired grilled seafood is one of the one-Michelin-starred restaurant’s specialities. It is prepared simply with olive oil, salt, and lemon on the side to highlight the quality of the produce. Stiller says the flavours are fantastic. Fishermen supply the restaurant with fresh catch, including turbot, seabass, and lobster, every day.
