COTE Korean Steakhouse is the antithesis of everything I associate with Korean BBQ places. Instead of bright neon signs and loud jingles, it has moody, seductive interiors enhanced by lounge music. There’s barely a whiff of smokiness, thanks to bespoke “smokeless” charcoal grills at each table.
The first Korean steakhouse in America with a Michelin star, COTE is the brainchild of restaurateur Simon Kim, who describes it as having the regalness of an American steakhouse and the conviviality of a Korean BBQ restaurant. “I like fine dining concepts that feature refinement and the best ingredients. However, I also enjoy fun, casual dining settings,” he shares.
Despite arriving late at the establishment’s Millim Bar, I have plenty of time to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. Dramatic foliage and dancing lights transform the pre-dinner spot into a lively zone for cocktails and conversations. Since Singapore is COTE’s first and only international location, Victoria James, executive director of beverage, echoes the team’s desire to offer award-winning wine lists similar to those found in New York and Miami steakhouses.
Aside from soju, you will find an extensive wine list with a focus on organic, biodynamic, or sustainable producers. “The great thing about COTE is the blend of highs and lows. Not only can you get competitive pricing on blue chip bottlings, but you can also fall in love with wines from small growers,” she says.
Cocktails in hand, we make our way past the main dining hall, designed by acclaimed architecture studio Modellus Novus to evoke the atmosphere of a members’ club. Shades of wood and dark green add to the elegance. At the end of the corridor, we enter the private dining room, where side-by-side booths in a row resemble frames from a movie scene.
There is a wide variety of premium meat cuts and savoury accompaniments on the menu, along with shareable appetisers and seafood dishes. Spoilt for choice, we go along with the recommended Butcher’s Feast, a lavish tasting experience featuring USDA prime and Australian wagyu beef cuts. We whet our appetites with Gogi Cha, a consommé of USDA prime beef bones.
COTE elevates the familiarity of Korean BBQ with fine wine and knowledgeable tableside service. Passing staff inspect any meat on the grill, even if they aren’t assigned to the table. Kim notes that the existence of a dry-ageing room sets his restaurant chain apart. “I love that dry-aged flavour, which is something everyone should try. It has a sense of funk and blue cheesiness,” he says.
Executive chef Jinwon Seo describes the Butcher’s Feast as a journey curated by premium prime cuts, with a slower, more deliberate meal pace than most Korean BBQs. The meat is seasoned with Signature Gastronome’s Salt, a proprietary blend of British Maldon salt, Celtic sea salt, and Korean thousand-day aged sea salt.
The pickled banchan is made in the restaurant’s vegetable fermentation lab, which allows it to become rich in probiotics. Afterwards, traditional favourites such as Spicy Kimchi Stew and Savoury Souffle Egg follow.
While the grilled meats are buttery-soft and flavourful, my favourite dish is the Singapore-exclusive Korean Beef “Bakkutteh”. “Considering how bak kut teh holds a special place in Singaporean cuisine, we thought we would put our twist on it. In our version, beef short ribs replace traditional pork ribs, along with herbs and spices to bring out the best of both words,” says Seo.
Cooked to tender perfection, the ribs are served with vermicelli in a rich, peppery broth. Even though it isn’t part of the Butcher’s Feast, Korean Beef “Bakkutteh” is deeply satisfying.
Comforting food, indeed.
