In between mouthfuls of crunchy churros and sticky rice ice cream—the dessert in the new eight-course degustation menu ($78 per pax) at Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh—Gaggan Anand waltzes up to our table and takes a seat. Here he was, the man himself, with tousled hair and a graphic tee that read: “Hug me, I smell like curry.”
He was visibly tired, having arrived in Singapore just last night but was enthusiastic about explaining what his cheeky t-shirt meant. “Once I got home and this girl whom I was dating said ‘You fucking smell like curry.’ And she didn’t want to have sex until I took a shower!”
Gaggan isn’t your average Michelin-starred chef, despite having clinched two stars for his namesake restaurant in Bangkok, among other stellar achievements. There’s a deep sensuality about his love for food and it shows in the unabashed way in which he presents his cuisine. Here at Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh, the menu uses the fictional love affair between a Mexican hometown girl and an Indian city boy as a metaphor for the fusion of both cuisines.
The appetisers were love at first bites. Inspired by his stint at El Bulli’s test kitchen and its famous spherical olives, “yoghurt explosion” surprised my tastebuds with vibrant notes of chaat masala and yoghurt. At once spicy, tart, salty, and tangy, it piqued my appetite for the rest of the meal. Equally memorable was the golgappa uni (only available on the $138 menu), reminiscent of the classic Indian street snack panipuri. Filled with Hokkaido white corn puree and topped with uni, the deep-fried but airy treat paired wonderfully with a shot of tequila-based green verdita.
For Gaggan, the decision to meld Mexican and Indian cuisine came naturally as the ingredients used were similar. He explains: “They both use spices, chilli, coriander, and tomatoes. They (the Mexicans) make mole and we make curry.”
The only difference? “Cultural and geographical,” he chuckles. That said, he was quick to add that the culinary exchange and trades between these communities ran far and deep. For instance, sugar is made from sugarcane discovered thousands of years back in New Guinea, but the route is also traced to India and South Asia.
Spicy and acidic, the taco pork vindaloo is the perfect example of this cross-cultural exchange. Flour tortilla, the foundation of Mexican border cooking, is topped with pulled pork served in vindaloo, a curry dish from Goa. The final touches of pineapple salsa added a much-welcomed hint of tangy sweetness. Likewise, the scallop tostada and root vegetable mole, served with soft tortillas, showcased the best of both Mexican and Indian cuisines with their bright flavours.
While hands-deep into my tacos and tortillas, I understood why Gaggan’s idea of comfort food is whatever you can eat with your hands. It was primal and instinctive, and most of all, textural and delicious. “Just fucking put your nail dirt into the food. The flavour is amazing,” he says without skipping a beat. Likewise, in his Bangkok namesake restaurant, guests are encouraged to lick their plates clean with the aptly named “Lick It Up” dish, which showcases the essence of a good curry with sweet, sour, spicy, and savoury notes.
Gaggan’s goal is to make and serve authentic food, without frills, fancy dotted cream, or unnecessary flowers. His disdain for pretentious food and people is clear. “I got angry when I saw a diner post a video of him squeezing a lime on the taco,” he says. His idea of good food is produce-focused and simple. “For example, the best sushi will have perfectly cut fish and perfectly cooked rice made from soft hands.”
This appreciation for authenticity and simplicity is clear in his signature crab curry and chicken tikka masala. Plated in a deep pot without accoutrements, the savoury curries had a well-balanced level of spice and paired marvellously with the fluffy coconut rice.
Despite his brazen demeanour, it’s clear that Gaggan’s love for food and family is very close to his heart. While reflecting on what his last meal could be, he turns sentimental. “I wanted to say what my mom cooks, but she’s no more. So, perhaps street food I would have enjoyed with her.”
