Who knew the sublime earthiness of ceremonial-grade matcha would take the rich flavours of chicken curry up a notch? Inspired by the matcha curry dish of Japan’s Uji prefecture, chef Caleb Ang decided to create the Matcha Curry Grilled Chicken Leg, with a local twist.
Taking notes from Indian-style butter chicken recipe, he marinated the chicken in masala tandoori spices and grilled it over binchotan. Matcha curry took the place of butter chicken gravy, along with a dash of cooling raita to quell the heat. “That unctuous taste and warmth, like fireworks on your palate,” Ang quips.
This dish exemplifies what Ang, together with his partners, hopes to achieve at the newly opened Equatorial Sg. Located on the second floor of a Duxton Road shophouse, the cosy semi-fine dining concept prides itself on Pan-Asian flavours with modern interpretations.
“Equatorial Sg is about reinterpreting the familiar, respecting tradition while exploring new possibilities. It’s not about reinventing Pan-Asian cuisine—it’s about refining it, highlighting its essence through better ingredients and techniques,” he adds.
Aside from Ang, the players behind this venture include Adrian Goh, Singapore’s first Saké Samurai (a title given by the Japan Sake Brewers Association Junior Council) and a connoisseur of Japanese rice wine; Justin Herson, the force behind Lion City Meadery; and Stefan Koh, brewer and founder of District Brewers. Thanks to these experts, my meal was delightfully complemented with beverage pairings like the crisp and tart Classic Mead from Lion City Meadery, as well as a citrus-forward mikan liquor.
Ang, who founded Mono Izakaya, brings his passion for aged fish sashimi and fermentation techniques to Equatorial Sg. Meanwhile, the restaurant’s open binchotan kitchen allows for precision charcoal grilling to enhance depth of flavour and smokiness in every dish. He also employs hay smoking to bring a distinctive, earthy depth to his dishes, enhancing both flavour and texture.
A noteworthy example? The Binchotan Skin Grilled Madai Sashimi. Aged red sea bream is lightly kissed by binchotan charcoal, intensifying its natural flavours, while black garlic aioli adds a mellow sweetness and roasted rice tea brings a subtle nuttiness. The dish is finished with a house soy blend, carefully crafted from three distinct varieties sourced from Japan and China, adding a complex balance of salinity.
Ang counts the dessert Kaya Toast Mascarpone “Cheesecake”, among his favourite menu items. The reimagination of a cheesecake features onsen tamago, coconut cream, pandan syrup for a playful dessert take on a Singaporean breakfast.
“We thought a kaya toast dessert was overdone and overrated. And cheesecake isn’t an Asian dessert. Then comes the idea of serving an onsen egg for imagery and plating, which was an ode to my trip to Gero Onsen in Japan. It’s our idea of tradition meets innovation,” he explains.
A pleasant surprise for my dessert-loving palate, the combination of ingredients worked together nicely. Once mixed, I could hardly taste the slow poached egg, only the sweet and creamy flavours of a kaya-flavoured cheesecake.
Ang believes that people across Asia are reconnecting with their culinary roots, hence Pan-Asian cuisine has gained momentum. He hopes that Equatorial Sg can contribute to this shift by spotlighting lesser-known Asian cuisines. “Think Tibetan, Laotian, or remote Filipino dishes, presented through familiar cooking techniques, bridging the gap between the unfamiliar and the approachable,” he says.
