I rarely like Korean cuisine. But I love Naeum, the popular Korean fine dining restaurant along Telok Ayer Street. I was initially sceptical when I first visited it several years ago on my accord before it won the Michelin star in 2022. Chef Louis Han had created thematic menus for each season, and I was there for Episode Two. I had no expectations, but was blown away, especially by the simple somyeon dish, which made my taste buds dance in a way no other cold noodles had done before.
So, when the restaurant invited me to taste its latest fifth chapter, I accepted, eager to see if Chef Han could continue his magic. Episode Five takes inspiration from front yard barbecues, a popular activity in Korea during spring and summer. Han regales the table with stories of regular barbecues held at his grandmother’s house in Korea. He would wrap the freshly grilled meats with fresh vegetables plucked from the small garden before eating them. “There were no pests because my grandmother doused the plants with pesticide,” he says, laughing at the memory.
There are no pesticides at Naeum. My favourite somyeon, however, makes an appearance. This time, it’s topped with pork belly, kimchi and a dash of tobiko. It remains excellent. The somyeon is part of the Signature itinerary. Chef Han has created two variations—the aforementioned Signature, priced at $258, and the Classic, which sets you back $198 and without the somyeon and a dessert of honey, jujube ice cream and charcoal. I’ll recommend the former, if only because of those delicious cold noodles.
Han curated the two variations to reflect the season’s ingredients and split them into hot and cold segments, just like a typical summer barbeque in Korea. His mastery of typical Korean dishes is clear. The wagyu beef is grilled perfectly and cleverly paired with sweet potato and an array of vegetables, or banchan. The doeji-galbi bap, or pork ribs, is cooked in a cast-iron pot together with the rice to bring out its aromatic flavours.
The red mullet is a standout. Fish is a tricky ingredient to grill, as I’ve discovered in my kitchen misadventures. The temperature has to remain consistent. A degree too hot or cold can knock the white meat askew. Chef Han pairs the red mullet with delicious fermented beans and canola blossoms for a balanced flavour profile.
Naeum only had one empty table on the day of my visit. I remember when you had to book three months in advance to dine at the restaurant. The front of the house shared that there is still a month-long waiting list. The empty table had already finished its meal and left. With Episode Five, I don’t foresee this waiting list to get dramatically shorter. Chef Han once again proves why he received a Michelin star.
