In a world where time-honoured traditions meet cutting-edge innovation, Ilaria Resta, CEO of Audemars Piguet, is set to lead the renowned watchmaker through a significant transformation.
She assumed the position in January this year, succeeding François-Henry Bennahmias, who held the post since 2012 and had worked for the brand for almost three decades. While Resta faces the challenge of filling big shoes, she brings a wealth of experience and a fresh perspective to the role after a successful career spanning nearly 30 years.
During our interview, she discusses watchmaking’s future, her strategic goals for Audemars Piguet, and her unique approach to leadership that places her at the heart of the company rather than at the top.
The future of watchmaking
Resta believes the watchmaking industry is on the brink of significant change, driven by a growing interest among younger watch enthusiasts. “We are witnessing a growing number of younger people showing renewed interest in mechanical watchmaking,” she observes.
In her view, the Gen Z group, which is projected to account for over 40 percent of the watchmaking market by 2030, is distinct from the generations that came before them. “This generation has unique needs and desires, and demands transparency to gain better insight into the inner workings of watchmaking,” she says.
Seeing this shift as both an opportunity and an imperative to evolve, Resta envisions a more inclusive industry that welcomes a broader audience. “My goal is to ensure we open the doors of this marvellous industry to anyone who is interested in not just making a purchase, but also in exploring an industry that intersects art, fashion, luxury culture, and mechanical innovation.”
Every leader brings a unique vision and set of priorities, and Resta is no different. In the long term, she wants Audemars Piguet to maintain its perpetuity and autonomy as a family-owned brand while continuing its traditions and pushing the boundaries of innovation.
“My infinite long-term goal is about assuring the perennity and independence of Audemars Piguet as a family-owned business. This is important to me and to the shareholders,” she explains. As a watchmaker, she believes the company must maintain its traditions while investing in cutting-edge technology.
Her immediate focus is strengthening the company’s foundations. “We need to ensure that all the pillars—innovation, people, strategies, retail—are very solid before we continue this growth,” she notes. This balance between stability and growth is central to her strategy and reflects her astute understanding of the business landscape.
AP House and the Royal Oak Mini FROSTED GOLD
Audemars Piguet has continually been at the forefront of transforming traditional retail spaces into immersive brand experiences, and its AP Houses exemplify this shift, offering clients more than just a place to purchase watches. Resta recently inaugurated AP House Milano, a sprawling five-storey building in Milan’s prestigious Via Bagutta.
“I love the concept of the AP Houses. It was a big revolution in the retail environment because it’s not a typical commercial space. It’s more a space of discovery, creation, and human connections with our clients, who are increasingly becoming more like friends of the brand,” says Resta.
The AP Houses foster interaction among collectors and enthusiasts, offering areas dedicated to music, art, and cuisine, all in an informal and relaxed setting. “Our vision is to replicate the welcoming environment of our founders’ home, so clients feel at home when they visit,” she says.
The event in Milan also marked the debut of the miniature Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold in yellow, white or pink gold with a quartz movement providing seven years of battery life. While the diminutive 23mm size is targeted at smaller wrists, Resta emphasises that the design appeals to a diverse clientele. “We know men who are very interested in this model.”
She strongly advocates for gender neutrality in watchmaking, aligning with broader industry trends. The newly introduced watch, for example, is a testament to this philosophy, despite its small size. “Watchmaking is gender-neutral. Complications of all types are gender-neutral, and the use of gold, diamonds, and stones is becoming increasingly gender-neutral,” she asserts.
The piece stands out with its scintillating frosted gold finish, achieved by creating tiny indentations hammered with diamond tools according to the Florentine technique, a signature of Florentine jeweller Carolina Bucci, with whom Audemars Piguet has partnered since 2016.
Collaborations, of course, have long been a hallmark of the brand’s strategy, and Resta sees them as vital for future innovation. “Collaborations push the boundaries of creativity and savoir-faire.”
They also provide access to new generations and target clients, ensuring the brand remains relevant in a rapidly evolving market. “This happens when we have a common set of values and a shared vision of watchmaking,” she stresses.
Leadership philosophy
Resta’s leadership style is rooted in what she calls “circular leadership”, a departure from traditional hierarchical models. “I try to position myself at the centre of this circle rather than at the top of a pyramid,” she says. This approach fosters closer relationships with her team members and keeps her connected to the core of the business. “Leaders must continually learn, and learn to be agile,” she says, emphasising the importance of staying informed and adaptable.
Her strengths lie in emotional intelligence and a genuine interest in building relationships. “I connect with people,” she explains. This strength fosters loyalty and trust and is essential for effective leadership. However, she acknowledges that her passion can sometimes lead to over-commitment. “My weakness is that I tend to want to do many things and manage my schedule without necessarily being rigorous,” she admits.
Although Resta is proud to be a female leader in what is traditionally a male-dominated industry, and views it as an opportunity to inspire other women, she remains dedicated to broader diversity and inclusion goals. “I recognise that we’re far from parity,” she says, emphasising her commitment to diversity in all its forms. “Diversity drives business results and a better understanding of client needs.”
With her leadership style, goals, commitment to inclusivity, and a vision for Audemars Piguet that is both ambitious and grounded in a deep respect for its heritage, she is well suited to lead the company through its transformational phase. Resta’s approach will ensure the brand’s relevance in the watchmaking industry while setting a higher standard for innovation, engagement, and luxury.
