Every artist needs a muse. For Chang Fee Ming, it’s a place, not a person. Even though Kuala Terengganu, Malaysia, is his birthplace, he has a soft spot for Bali. On its northeastern coast, Tembok’s raw natural beauty and traditional fishing villages captivate him.
Self-taught since the early 1980s, Chang travels extensively around South-east Asia. An article about a landmark Bali trip undertaken by acclaimed artists Liu Kang, Chen Chong Swee, Chen Wen Hsi, and Cheong Soo Pieng from Singapore inspired his first sojourn to the Island of the Gods. “My first visit to this stunning spiritual island was in 1985, and I’ve been returning there ever since. The people have welcomed me and my work warmly.”
Chang’s recent collaboration with Spa Village Resort Tembok puts him back in Bali for a creative retreat. It’s the first of its kind for both him and the property.
Their relationship began over a decade ago when he published his art and travel book Journey to Tembok with Chang Fee Ming. Featuring detailed sketches and anecdotes, it is a love letter to the idyllic resort with a cheeky nod to the long and winding three-hour journey from Denpasar International Airport and the sights along the way.
Tembok is nothing like the Bali I associate with popular resort towns like Kuta, Seminyak, or Canggu. Dusty tracks and endless coastal scenery lead to the hidden paradise that is Spa Village Resort Tembok. The 31-room destination is nestled between Mount Agung and the vivid blue Bali Sea, just kilometres away from the bustling tourist zone.
Unsurprisingly, its remoteness makes it the ultimate retreat getaway—and the fact that it is adults-only adds to its tranquillity.
Chang quickly explains that this isn’t a painting course and there are no painting classes. “In such an idyllic place, I don’t want the participants to feel too much pressure to paint. I hope to share a happy day by letting everyone experience my favourite Tembok routines and village life.
As one of Asia’s most accomplished contemporary watercolourists, Chang dispels any notion I had about him. With an infectious warmth about his mannerisms, he is down to earth. In a crumpled T-shirt and baggy angler pants, he looks almost shy among his artworks displayed at the resort’s gym, which is also our painting space.
Vibrant colour and composition depict his principal subjects, the people and places of South-east Asia.
The day after I arrive, the retreat begins with an early morning sketch at a nearby fishing village. Just steps away from the resort, the place is serene and picturesque. On the beaches, the traditional Balinese fishing boats or jukung lie idle, while a lone fisherman fixes his net in silence.
All 17 of us sit on tiny wooden stools, sketching away in true plein air style. Chang sketches alongside us. Occasionally, he stops by to see how we’re doing and offers gentle encouragement and suggestions.
Afterwards, we gather in the gym to fill our pen sketches with watercolours. He is generous with his painting advice, such as layering light washes to create contrast, but it is Chang’s stories about the Tembok area that captivate us.
As well as exploring local villages and sketching, I find rejuvenation through spa treatments and hatha yoga classes. “Segara giri”, a pre-spa treatment, refers to the resort’s location between mountains and seas.
In Balinese culture, the feet act as conduits between the earth’s energy and oneself. Thus, washing the feet in black volcanic sand purifies them of the built-up negativity. Although I don’t know if this is true, each spa and massage session leaves me feeling reborn.
As the world gets busier and busier, Chang’s artworks serve as a timely reminder to slow down. He believes Bali inspires humanity; it reminds him to be a good person and to live life to the fullest. “The Balinese are artists. They start their day as farmers in the morning and in the afternoon, they could be sculptors. At night, they are dancers for the gods!” says Chang.
