As a new mother living in New York City, Mandy Lim’s go-to comfort food was handrolls. “It was very convenient for me to eat, with my baby strapped to my chest in a carrier,” she reminisces. After spending a decade building the Instagram app in Silicon Valley, Lim decided to return to Singapore in pursue of something that she could call her own. Together with chef and co-owner Aeldra Leo, she started Toku Nori.
Tucked away on the second and third floors of a shophouse on Telok Ayer Street, the modern Japanese handroll bar serves handrolls inspired by traditional flavours. The interior is simple but striking. Wavy neon lights and a Japanese lampshade centrepiece illuminates the space, while counter seats allow guests to enjoy the culinary action. Priced from $8 each, the handrolls are affordable and generous in portion. Lim tells us more about her latest endeavour.
What sparked your decision to start Toku Nori?
I lived in the United States for eight and a half years. During my time in New York, I loved visiting Japanese speakeasy bars that specialised in handrolls and sake. Two places that particularly inspired me were KazuNori in Union Square, helmed by chef Kazunori Nozawal; and Nami Nori in the West Village. The unique atmosphere and culinary experiences at these spots motivated me to bring a similar concept back to Singapore.
What makes a great handroll?
Rice and nori—hence, our name. The word Toku Nori in Japanese translates to “special seaweed.” Exceptional sushi lies in the quality of the rice and nori. We use Koshihikari Pearl Rice from Japan, renowned as the “king” of Japanese rice. Our seaweed is harvested from the pristine waters of the Kyushu Ocean, considered among the best in Japan.
Your favourite item on the menu and why?
The Engawa handroll, which features the fin muscle of the Hirame. It’s a very precious cut of meat because each flounder has only four tail fins, making it highly valued! The fish has a rich and fatty flavour. Plus, it melts in your mouth like butter as you bite into it. Aeldra’s favourite item on our izakaya menu is the Maguro Poppers, which has crispy nori shells piped with fresh tuna and a house-made edamame filling.
Your recommended handroll and sake pairing, and why?
Shinbun sake with the Hamachi handroll. The sake, which has notes of pear and melon, comes with an interesting backstory. In Japan it’s known as the “newspaper” sake because when the brand first started out, they had no label or name. Now that they are famous, they kept the newspaper wrapping as it’s iconic to their brand.
