Few can decipher the delicacy, nuances and poetry of fine Japanese dining, but Takeshi Araki’s mastery of the culinary form isn’t cut from whole cloth. His glistering credentials include a four-year stint at the three Michelin–starred Tokyo restaurant, Nihonryori RyuGin. At Esora, he renders fine seasonal produce into edible art using contemporary and traditional techniques. His go-to list of eateries in Japan is just as thoughtful and exquisite.
Margotto e Baciare, Tokyo
Helmed by a pair of brothers, this restaurant’s key ingredient is truffles. Enjoy high-quality black and white varieties during any season. Its speciality is beef consommé with truffles served in a wine glass. My sous chef Nishio and I once worked there together, and I’ve fond memories of my time there. You’ll love the ambience and warm service.
Ryoriya Uemura, Kobe
Visit this two Michelin-star kappo restaurant during winter, when you can try their speciality Kobako Kani, or female snow crab. Each plate is a unique experience. Chef-owner Uemura Naoki is one of the best Japanese cuisine chefs in the country. I’ve never come across English-speaking staff here, so visit with a local.
Sazenka, Tokyo
Sazenka is a three Michelin-star Chinese fine-dining restaurant infused with Japanese sensibilities. Opt for the tea pairing. Chef-owner Tomoya Kawata’s kitchen skills leave no room for doubt, but what sets him apart is his appreciation and knowledge of Chinese and Japanese tea. The tea-drinking cultures of both countries are evident in his cuisine. I recommend the Mapo Shirako (fish sperm) served with rice. Ask your hotel concierge to help you make reservations.
Ryoriya Inaya, Osaka
Have you had deep-fried abalone? It’s a speciality at Ryoriya Inaya that’s served in a small paper bag so you can enjoy it as finger- food. It tastes really amazing but be sure to order in advance to avoid disappointment. Though the restaurant is not well-known as it is still new, I am confident that it is on the precipice of fame. It has a homey feel, for those looking to enjoy Japanese kappo cuisine in a relaxed environment.
