The timing couldn’t have been better. Michelin launched its first Fujian guide last year, focusing on the cities of Xiamen, Fuzhou, and Quanzhou. This is a long-overdue nod to a cuisine with a rich history that is often overlooked on the global stage.
Though Fujian food is the cuisine of the largest ethnic group among Chinese in Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines, and Southern Thailand, it is overshadowed by Cantonese, Teochew, and Sichuan food. In fact, its most elaborate banquet dish, Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, is often mistakenly attributed to Cantonese kitchens.
It wasn’t until Master Chef Wu Rong, born in Xiamen, opened his first Meet the Bund restaurant in Shanghai in 2018 that the tide began to turn. It won a Michelin star in 2021, the same year its head chef—Wu’s protege Yoda Chen—won the Michelin Young Chef Award. Today, Meet the Bund has three upscale restaurants in Shanghai, including the flagship Skyline, Wu’s top-tier showcase of Fujian fine dining.
In Xiamen, he runs Yanyu, the mid-tier Jiahe Road restaurant he established in 2011, which has exclusively served Fujian heritage foods since 2021. Dinner here is a celebration of the spirit of the land and sea of Xiamen, served with a contemporary edge. In his reinterpreted Jiang Mu Duck, for example, pigeon replaces duck and is paired with candied ginger, while succulent tubes of seaworm are filled with crisp cauliflower sprouts.
There are currently 10 Yanyu outlets in major Chinese cities, including Beijing, Chengdu, Nanjing, and Wuhan. Of these, Yanyu’s Jiahe Road flagship was awarded a Michelin star in the 2024 Michelin Guide for Fujian Province.
“For Yanyu to be recognised during the launch of the 2024 Michelin Guide for Fujian Province is an affirmation for us,” says Wu, who also owns a casual restaurant chain called Mr Rong with 30 locations in China and was named 2024 Chef of the Year by Black Pearl Restaurant Guide.
“It gives us the confidence to continue pushing,” he adds, sipping da hong pao tea, a type of Wuyi rock tea grown on the cliffs of the Wuyi Mountains, at the serene Four Courtyard Mansions in Gulangyu.
Over six meals, Wu introduces me to the shan zhen hai wei (mountain delicacies and sea treasures) of Xiamen. From Tu Sun Dong (sea worms embedded in the congealed jus of the water they were cooked in) and Jiang Mi Ya (ginger duck) to dishes featuring sha cong (sandworm), shijiu gong (tiger head fish), and lau hu xie (tiger crab), each reveals a facet of the city’s glorious produce, mainly rooted in Minnan’s coastal heritage.
Hot on the heels of Yanyu’s Michelin success, Meet the Bund in Shanghai was Best Restaurant in China in the 2025 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, ranking 14th overall. Wu received the news with mixed emotions: “I was shocked at first, but also genuinely happy and motivated to raise the bar so as not to disappoint our guests.” While accolades are gratifying, he sees them as a means to a greater end: expanding awareness of an underrated cuisine. Clearly, Fujian cuisine is finally enjoying its moment and basking in well-deserved recognition.
Joining Yanyu in its one Michelin star accolade in Xiamen is Hokklo, a Fujian fine-dining restaurant helmed by Executive Chef David Du at the Waldorf Astoria Xiamen.
His regional flavours are presented with quiet finesse, from simply salted Zhanggang sea clams in their own jus to Hetian chicken, a popular food in Fujian, particularly Changting County, braised with red dates, ginger, and goji berries.
During an early morning breakfast at Wu Tang Sha Cha Mian, which serves Du’s favourite Bib Gourmand-rated sha cha (or satay) noodles, he shares his hopes for Fujian cuisine. “With the change in dining demand, guests are increasingly seeking refinement, cultural appreciation, and enhanced dining experiences. Fujian cuisine must evolve with the effort of my generation of young chefs.”
It’s not just the mainland that is experiencing this renaissance. Restaurant chain Putien has been quietly laying the groundwork to bring the honest flavours of Putian, a city in Fujian, to Singapore since 2000.
With seasonal highlights such as duotou (razor clams) and loquats in April, Putien now spans 106 restaurants across Asia, earning a Michelin star for its Kitchener Road location from 2016 to 2023.
Xiamen’s Best Restaurants According to Wu
兴旺海鲜城(星河COCO Park店)
With a diverse selection of quality ingredients, the restaurant specialises in seafood. It’s worth trying many of the signature dishes beyond seafood, as the chefs demonstrate excellent cooking techniques.
李阿姨私房菜
There are only two tables prepared by Aunty Lee every day, with fresh ingredients bought daily. It doesn’t have a menu, but you get to taste the flavours of old Xiamen. Reasonable prices offer great value for money.
阿季·当季酒食 (后江埭店)
A laid-back little eatery with a wide variety of dishes and strong Minnan character. The flavours are good, prices are affordable, and it’s ideal for small gatherings.
厦门料理烧酒配 (小学路店)
It is famous for its signature sour bamboo shoots stewed with pork intestines. Small but well-liked by locals, the restaurant offers a variety of dishes that pair well with drinks. It also delivers delicious food at a great price.
