“If the sushi rice is not good, the sushi is not good at all,” declares Ryujiro Nakamura. The chef describes great sushi as having a fine balance of rice, fish, sauce, and temperature. Chutoro is a prime example. It’s my first course at Sushi Ryujiro’s first and only international outpost in Singapore.
According to Nakamura, the cut of medium fatty tuna is sourced directly from tuna merchant Yamayuki, a hallowed name in the culinary world, thanks to its relationship with some of Japan’s most renowned sushi masters. Complementing it is subtly sweet shari or sushi rice, served warm with the right balance of vinegar, both sweet and salty. “You can taste every single grain,” he says. I did.
Apart from the fish’s buttery and delicious taste, starting every meal at Sushi Ryujiro with Chutoro has deeper significance. It was served as the first course at Sushi Umi by Nakamura’s late mentor Nagano-san.
“The tradition began as customers dined with us after a long day’s work and waited for their courses to begin. Nagano-san thought of giving them Chutoro to curb their hunger and warm their bellies with its umami flavour and slightly warm temperature.”
Having a deep respect for Nagano-san, he continues this practice as a way to honour his mentor’s teachings. “Even after opening Sushi Ryujiro in Tokyo, I maintained the same practice. It is the restaurant’s greeting to the customer, like a business card or a welcome. Your meal is about to begin,” he explains.
Sushi Ryujiro Singapore draws inspiration from its one-Michelin-starred flagship Tokyo restaurant. The design is minimalist and features miniature zen gardens on the mezzanine level and 24 seats on the ground floor, including 14 at the counter. Nakamura attributes the international expansion of his restaurant to “perfect timing”.
The shareholders from Les Amis Group visited his Tokyo flagship and enjoyed their experience so much that they offered him an opportunity to open his first overseas restaurant in Singapore.
“I remember thinking how we have grown since 2019 and thought it was the perfect timing. The restaurant is stable, my staff work well together, and we see many regular customers. I took the leap and now I am here,” he says proudly.
Sushi Ryujiro Singapore offers a similar dining experience. The seafood is supplied by the same dealer at Toyosu Market, so quality is guaranteed. “Our menu is 90 percent similar, with some localised creations, such as the Nodoguro. We serve it differently from others in Singapore. The maki style does better justice to the fish. There is better balance.”
His creations have a beautiful simplicity. Nakamura shuns showmanship and embellishment. Instead of the typical chunk of cucumber in the centre, the Kappa Maki features thinly sliced cucumber cut katsuramuki style. With the julienned cucumber, which resembles small uniform matchsticks, the chef displays his knife skills. A simple dab of wasabi and a layer of shari wrapped in delicious, crispy seaweed refreshed my palate.
Traditionally the last course in sushi omakase, the Tamago at Sushi Ryujiro Singapore is prepared dashimaki style. Eggs are beaten and seasoned with ingredients like mirin and dashi, creating a moist, delicate texture. The ultimate comfort dish, it made a huge impression on everyone at the table.
In Singapore, head chef Naruki Ikeda leads Sushi Ryujiro. He’s a young talent from Kanagawa, Japan. To ensure culinary standards, Nakamura pledges to visit Singapore four times a year to introduce seasonal menu changes and share new techniques and ingredients from Japan.
He likens a diner’s experience at his restaurant to that of visiting Disneyland. “When I was younger, knowing I would be going there made me excited. There is so much joy being in the theme park. When it was time to go back, I was reluctant. Days after my experience, I would still think about it, and yearn to return again,” he says.
As long as customers feel the same way after dining at Sushi Ryujiro, then he has done an excellent job.
