“I really liked it,” Olivier Polge said of his internship at Chanel’s Fragrance Laboratory. The art history student spent a month working under his dad Jacques, the nose extraordinaire behind classics like Chance, Allure, and Bleu de Chanel.
Polge, who went on to train at the International Flavors & Fragrances and co-create a string of iconic juices, including Dior Homme, received a Prix International du Jeune Parfumeur award in 2009 for his achievements.
As Chanel’s Perfume Creator since 2013—Jacques officially retired from the role two years later—Polge has steered the maison into the hearts of a new generation. Following Misia and Boy for Les Exclusifs, he expanded the Chanel No. 5 canon in 2016 with a crisper, fresher No. 5 L’eau.
For Polge, whose first memory of a Chanel fragrance was Coco—he was only 10 when his dad created it—his work requires patience.
“It’s a very slow process because scents evolve throughout each day, and day after day,” he explained. “That’s why I struggle to talk about perfumes. Not everyone feels the same way about perfume—it evokes so many different emotions and dreams. And that’s also why I love what I do.”
How has it been to innovate Chanel No. 5 while preserving the spirit of the house?
There is always something new to make every day, but there must be a right way to do it. To create something new, I believe it has to draw from something; the more history we have, the stronger our identity, and the better I feel. A good perfume must resonate (with users) and give meaning to what it represents.
Chanel No. 5 perfumes are created in the same spirit. There is a tendency towards white flowers. It may be impossible to identify all the flowers, but it also means that each perfume smells differently. In that sense, you can look forward to a more intimate connection with the scent.
Tell us more.
Although part of my job is to ensure Chanel No. 5 smells the same, we also play with variations to express a specific characteristic. As a result, I created Chanel No. 5 L’eau in 2016. There are still signature Chanel No. 5 notes like jasmine and rose, but cedarwood makes it more dynamic. Is there anything else in it? I can’t tell you!
Where do you find inspiration for new scents?
Inspiration is difficult to find because it requires intuition and instinct, particularly when it comes to fragrances since smell is our most unconscious sense. We always say at Chanel that a perfume must retain some mystery. If it were fully understood, it would lose its magic. It would be a pity to discover everything.
What would you say to Gabrielle Chanel if you could travel back to 1921 when she created her signature fragrance?
I’d tell her how impressed I am by her, having come from the field of fashion and being able to change how perfume is created. She had an intuition that made her more successful than many noses. I don’t want to ask questions that are too specific; I’ll allow myself to build and enjoy the fantasy of Chanel No. 5 [laughs].
Discover more Chanel No. 5 festive gifting options here.
