“Better the second time around” applies to many experiences in life—ashtanga yoga, riding a bicycle, or parenthood. For gourmets, it also describes the six-hands collaboration between Edward Chong, Nicco Santos, and Quenee Vilar.
Presented in October at Peach Blossoms, Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay, where Chong is Executive Chinese Chef, the dinner was a one-night-only affair. The trio last collaborated in 2023 when Chong traveled to Manila to join Santos and Vilar at their Aurora restaurant.
The event, part of a Singapore Tourism Board initiative, spotlighted Peach Blossoms’ modern Chinese cuisine. This year, when the opportunity arose to create an experience showcasing progressive Asian flavours, Chong invited them to Peach Blossoms.
“This is a continuation of the friendship and shared vision that began last year,” he says. “Working alongside Nicco and Quenee has been an enriching experience, allowing us to explore the nuances of Southeast Asian cuisine through a collective lens. It is a celebration of our heritage and culinary philosophies.”
For Santos and Vilar, who parted ways with Aurora in August, the eight-course menu also offered glimpses into Celera, their new venture. Taking its name from the Malay word for “desire for food”, the restaurant opens at the end of this year in Pablo Ocampo Sr Extension in Metro Manila.
And while there have not been many occasions for contemporary Chinese and Filipino cuisines to cross paths, Santos notes, “Both share a deep love and passion for ingredients, tradition, and hospitality.”
EVOLVING FILIPINO FLAVOURS
Vilar singled out Chong’s Lobster with Chilled Garlic Yuzu-Infused Noodles, prepared at a low temperature to retain the naturally sweet flavours of the crustacean, as an example of its innovative elements, calling him “a true master at seafood”.
His Steamed Rice Roll wrapped with Crispy Vietnamese Rice Skin and Bonito Flakes was also a hit. The combination of soft and crunchy textures with an umami bonito flavour
made it a delightful treat. Keep those fingers crossed for the chef to introduce this into his dim sum menu.
Chong also served Roasted Suckling Pig with Harbin Rice, Liver Sauce, and Fermented Rice, which evoked Cebuano lechon. In every bite, the smoky and tender meat released deeply comforting flavours that tugged at the heartstrings.
“It’s about finding new ways to express flavours, so that we can continue to evolve as a cuisine.”
NICCO SANTOS,
CHEF-OWNER OF CELERA
Roasting pigs, with their crispy skin and succulent meat, can be found in both cuisines, according to Chong. “While Chinese and Filipino cuisines share several similarities, the arrival of the Spaniards made significant changes to Filipino cuisine,” he adds.
“Chinese dishes often emphasise balance and subtle flavours; Filipino dishes have bolder taste profiles, thanks to their diversity of spices and seasonings. In terms of techniques, the former uses steaming and stir-frying, while the latter prefers simmering and braising to develop rich, complex flavours.”
As an example, Santos’ Beef BBQ Short-ribs, served with Lacto-Fermented Mango Gremolata and Broccolini was braised for over 48 hours until the meat was falling-off-the-bone tender. It was beautifully complemented by locally sourced herbs, a fragrant citrus and roasted chilli gel, liver sauce, toasted rice, and ginger flowers.
The Sorrel Sandwich Foie Gras was particularly impressive. This elegant ode to the Oreo biscuit captivated the palate with its opulent balance of buttery, rich foie gras, delicate honey tuille, mild coconut vinegar, and refreshing shiso.
Crudo with Aged Kanpachi (greater amberjack), Jalapeno Tosazu, Tomato Ensalada, and Makrut (kaffir lime) provided another punch. Featuring umami and citrus flavours that enhanced the freshness of the fish, this dish was irresistibly invigorating.
Why are Santos and Vilar so determined to push boundaries? “It’s about finding new ways to express flavours, so that we can continue to evolve as a cuisine and ensure that younger chefs are excited about using these ingredients and techniques. “To sum it up, it is about innovating tradition.”
