Truth be told, the Hermès men’s universe has been consistent. But consistency could be taken as two varying meanings. The first, is that artistic director Véronique Nichanian has crafted such a strong visual narrative of the Hermès man; or that there isn’t that much left to push creatively in menswear.
Thankfully, the autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection proved that Nichanian still had the capabilities to change things up while still retaining a signature look.
Hermès as a storied luxury maison is known for its playfulness in many ways. Here, it was an attempt at crafting an edgier image of the Hermès man but one where it wasn’t done in such a serious, subcultural way. Instead, with the use of clever hardware and offbeat accessories, Nichanian did edgy the Hermès way—perhaps a bit distilled but impactful in that it felt completely natural without trying too hard.
There were still that deftly executed layering that Nichanian seems to favour a lot but this time, thy were largely composed of monochromatic hues. Shades of blacks in one outfit, earth tones in another, and an assemblage of neutrals to still craft that sense of Parisian chic and elegance that’s central to Hermès.
Looking at the entire line-up of the Hermès autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection, it occured to me that this was perhaps the collection with the most number of leather pieces. Sure, Hermès is known for its craftsmanship especially pertaining to leather. But I seem to recall that leather in ready-to-wear, especially in its menswear, felt like accents. This time, leather seemed to be quite central and perhaps lending a more edgy, punk vibe.
There were a number supple leather outerwear, beautifully cut leather trousers that moved effortlessly down the runway, as well as leather accents on a number of pieces for extra luxe touch points.
It’s in the accessories though where Nichanian truly nailed the edgy aesthetic. Single earrings in white gold and diamonds, an array of Chaine d’ancre necklaces and bracelets, as well as brooches all added offbeat flourishes that worked extremely well in consolidating the narrative into a cohesive vision.
And if you’re looking for an update on the Haut à courroies, the autumn/winter 2023 version is one to aim for. Available in calfskin or matte crocodile, they’re decorated with multiple pockets for added functionality.
View the full Hermès autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection in the gallery below.
