“When I do interviews for NAE:UM, I’m all dressed up, but for GU:UM, I don’t shave,” chuckles Louis Han. The chef’s cheeky quip encapsulates the difference between his two establishments. The former is an ethereal, one-Michelin starred restaurant serving seasonal menus with inklings of Korean roots, while the latter is a contemporary grill with unmistakably Korean influences.
GU:UM was just over a week old when I visited but it was already filled to the brim on a weekday evening. Unsurprisingly, most of them were loyal fans of NAE:UM, keen to savour his new offerings. Not many know this but GU:UM has its roots in its sister restaurant.
According to Han, the new opening is inspired by NAE:UM’s fifth episodic menu ‘Front Yard Barbecue’. Here, his fond memories of nostalgic barbecue gatherings are elevated through a sophisticated grill experience. With NAE:UM alumni helming key roles at GU:UM, Han wants guests to think of the latter as the youthful sibling.
With the name meaning ‘to grill’ or ‘to cook over fire’, GU:UM centers its menu around a selection of land and sea produce, all prepared on a custom charcoal grill. But this is no Korean BBQ. Dishes are prepared and cooked in an open kitchen before being served.
The vibe is convivial and lively, with a splendid drinks menu. Highlights include a selection of boutique Korean and international liquors, including South Korean’s first craft gin, brewed by a father-and-son duo. I quenched my thirst with the Baetini, a refreshing cocktail filled with sweet-tart notes thanks to the combination of Won Soju, Damsoul pine soju, and Korean pear.
Best enjoyed in a communal setting, the a la carte starters are well-seasoned and flavourful. The KFC (Korean Fried Cauliflower) is a meatless take on the popular yangnyeom fried chicken. It features crispy battered cauliflower, tossed with rice cake and spam in a sweet and spicy sauce. Equally enjoyable was the Yukhwae Jeon, a moreish potato pancake topped with hand chopped beef tartare and dollops of molten egg yolk.
Then, it was the main event. A generous platter of Tajima Wagyu Ribeye MBS 8 and Iberico Pluma is served alongside a salad, as well as banchan like house made pickles and kimchi. Meant to be enjoyed in the style of Korean ssam wraps using leafy vegetables, the spread is generous and delicious. For grilled meats, diners have the option of four marination choices including galbi, chilli gochujang, or fermented fish sauce, or simply salted. The Iberico in fermented fish sauce is a winner in my books.
Meanwhile, the Cinderella Noodles, a glass noodle dish packed with umami and acidic flavour, is quickly polished off by my dining companions and me, even before the meats arrive.
Amid the desserts, the Hotteok stands out. The traditional warm Korean rice flour pancake has a delectable mochi texture and is filled with cinnamon powder and brown sugar. It comes with burnt honey ice cream and mixed nuts to accentuate the flavours, and is easily one of the best Korean sweets I’ve had.
