Founded in 1828 by perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, Guerlain is among the oldest beauty houses in the world. Even with 196 years of experience in skincare, makeup, and fragrances, the French company continues to innovate over the years, with groundbreaking launches like the first commercial lipstick, as well as the introduction of scientific skincare.
Its latest Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile skincare, comprising of just serum and cream, is testimony to its rigorous innovation. Featuring an extract from the Gold Nobile orchid (dendrobium nobile), the products help to restore biophoton emission by skin cells to a level approaching that of a young cell. This amplifies the signs of skin youthfulness and luminosity. We speak to Dr. Frédéric Bonté, Guerlain’s director of scientific communication, to understand more about the research behind this range.
How has your pharmaceutical science background and research on orchids influenced your work at Guerlain?
Studying in France gave me a broad vision of the sciences, including physics, biology, physical-chemistry, medicinal plants, organic synthesis, and analytical methods. It’s an advantage because it enables me to cover various fields and build several research projects with an international dimension.
At Guerlain, we combine a wide range of skills via the Orchidarium, a unique research platform focusing on orchids and their benefits in anti-aging cosmetics. Vast expertise is needed to discover the most appropriate orchid extract and the formulation for skincare targeted efficacy.
We have botanical and phytochemistry experts who master modern techniques for analysing the orchid’s life and its biologically active molecules. Biologists need to have dual expertise in skin. First, they need knowledge of the skin’s ageing mechanisms. Secondly, they must be able to build in vitro or ex-vivo test models to detect and prove the biological efficacy of ingredients such as orchid extracts, and link them to their compositions.
Meanwhile, formulators work with physical chemists to invent formulas that combine sensorially with proven efficacy. Demonstrations are carried out by skin experts thanks to instrumental measurements and clinical studies. Their choice of ultramodern protocols and methods is key to grasping all the subtleties of a formula’s cosmetic properties.
How do orchids contribute to longevity and anti-ageing?
Orchidaceae represents around 30000 species worldwide. They all have unique biology that responds to environmental conditions. They produce very diverse molecules, called secondary metabolites, but only a few have biological potential for skin cosmetics.
The selection of orchids and the method of extraction are key to finding a orchid extract with high cosmetic potential. Among these molecules, some act on different biological pathways linked to the longevity of functional young skin cells. Formulated in skin care, our orchid extracts showcase cosmetic efficacy by correcting visible skin ageing signs. This results in firmness, elasticity, luminosity, and homogeneity; giving skin a youthful appearance.
Tell us about the inspiration and process behind formulating the Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale Gold Nobile Skincare line.
The inspiration was the fundamental discovery that older cells emit different biophotons than younger cells, and that these “ultraweak photons emissions” are linked to metabolisms. We know in detail the age-related differences in metabolism and their impact on skin aging: loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of pigmentation disorders, and loss of radiance and luminosity. Thanks to our Orchidarium knowledge, we selected an extract of dendrobium nobile flower buds capable of correcting ultraweak photon emissions, as well as acting on other important phenomena, such as the synthesis of procollagen l.
What was the biggest challenge you faced in formulating this skincare line?
In anti-aging, the aim of ingredients is to restore or prolong youthful cell function. Our products, on the other hand, are designed to reduce the appearance of ageing skin. With Orchidee lmperiale Gold Nobile, we had to address cosmetic efficacy on 10 youth signs and six luminosity skin parameters. The biggest challenge was to find the right balance between all the components, so that the final product satisfies the consumer in terms of sensorial, cosmetic efficacy, and effectiveness in the short and long term.
What’s your daily skincare routine like?
I like having a simple skincare routine with a few steps, but with high sensorial pleasure and performance. Currently, my routine includes cleansing, moisturising, and anti-aging. From mid-May onwards, I will include UV protection when necessary. I also exercise and eat as naturally as possible.
