Bearing a wide grin on his face, François Mermilliod joins us at the table. Despite tolling in the kitchen all day, he is nonetheless excited to hear what guests have to say about his dishes. The Morisseau Bouchot mussels pasta is a crowd favourite and Mermilliod beams from ear to ear because it’s his too.
He shares that these molluscs come from Mont Saint-Michel Bay in Normandy, France and are a seasonal specialty of the region. They are exceptionally plump and juicy during this time of the year. Served with al-dente linguine, the mussels are prepared in a tomato garlic base with a hint of Asian spice. Bright and punchy, the flavourful pasta was easily my favourite among the six dishes he created for 67 Pall Mall’s second Resident Chef Series.
Inaugurated in June 2023, the Resident Chef Series of 67 Pall Mall is a platform for Singapore-based chefs to showcase their culinary excellence at the private members’ club for wine lovers. The chef-owner of Bar-A-Thym, Mermilliod’s uncomplicated and elegant Southern French cuisine are a worthy match for the club’s collection of over 5,000 wines.
“Kori Millar, the general manager of 67 Pall Mall, is a friend of mine and she sounded out the idea to me at the beginning of the year. I immediately said yes as I felt the club has an amazing concept and I wanted to be part of it,” he says.
Throughout each chef’s three-month residency, a menu is created exclusively for the club each month, to be presented alongside the existing à la carte menu. Mermilliod’s creations showcase the soul of his cooking, where South of France and Mediterranean cuisine is given an Asian touch. “Seasonal and prime ingredients are put together in a simple manner with no artifice. From the September menu, I really like the yellowfin tuna ceviche and the pork rack,” he says.
Beautifully grilled to “medium caisson” in the Josper oven, the Iberico pork rack comes crusted in Pommery mustard and almond and is laced with a delicious smokiness from the char. Accompanied by Kipfler potatoes and girolles or wild mushrooms, the dish pairs well with Felsina Fontalloro 2017, a Sangiovese from Tuscany, Italy. The dark and luscious red wine offers layers of dark fruit, plum, and cherry, with its acidity helping to cut through the fats of the pork rack.
Another delightful creation is the royan ravioles filled with Comté cheese, forest mushroom, and hazelnut. A specialty of the Dauphiné region in the Rhône Alps, the vegetarian-friendly dish shines with earthy flavours that are complemented by the cheese’s buttery and nutty aroma. It is accented with hazelnut oil and toasted hazelnuts and finished with Comté cheese shaved tableside.
This dish is a great example of Mermilliod’s culinary style, which emphasises the simplicity of quality produce. “I believe in keeping things simple, using prime produce, and not overcomplicating the dish by mixing too many techniques and ingredients. Aromatic herbs are a big part of my cooking as well,” he says.
The appreciation for simple and hearty cuisine comes through in the chef’s love for comfort food. His picks include a nasi lemak, a cassoulet, a simple roasted chicken, or a flavourful-packed fish head curry. “It really depends on the mood and of course, the wine to pair it with,” he muses.
While presenting his stellar September menu, Mermilliod also teased his October menu, which will “showcase a new line-up of Southern French specialties including a rich bouillabaisse and a roasted pigeon.”
