There’s no doubt pizza tastes amazing fresh out of the oven and even better the next day. But nothing quite prepared me for Diego Vitagliano’s creations, which blew me away with its pillowy soft texture, from crust to middle. The edges are slightly charred and crisp, while the dough’s near-perfect rise lends itself to an incredible texture that suits whatever toppings are added.
The man behind the Naples-based 10 Diego Vitagliano, which ranks first in the 50 Top Pizza World 2023 list, was recently in Singapore for a sold-out series of four-hands dinners at La Bottega. We speak to him to find out how he created his signature pizza and the inspiration behind the collaboration menu with Antonio Miscellaneo, maker of Singapore’s best pizza.
Tell us more about your signature Canotto pizza. What’s unique about it?
The Canotto, which revives the pizza from Vomero about 50 years ago, is characterised by a pronounced crust and smaller dimensions compared to what was defined as the traditional ‘cartwheel’ pizza in Naples. Around 2010, together with chef Carlo Sammarco, I began experimenting with this type of pizza, using preparation techniques like those used in bread and indirect doughs with biga or poolish. My Canotto pizza has a well-developed and elevated edge, with a melt-in-the-mouth centre.
What makes a great pizza?
A great pizza must be digestible. The ones I make are light and digestible, with long fermentation times, high hydration, and a low amount of salt. I aim to make my pizzas healthy through research, which requires a deep knowledge of the flours, enzymatic processes, and thermal shocks. Because a true contemporary pizzaiolo is someone who can combine modernity and ancient wisdom.
Your choice pizza flavour?
My favourite is the contemporary Neapolitan Margherita, an iconic pizza that has made Italian cuisine famous all over the world. I prefer a contemporary Neapolitan dough with a well-pronounced crust. It’s soft with a bit of crunchiness, with low salt content and good digestibility.
Your favourite ingredients to use and why?
Those from my region, particularly the Campi Flegrei area. In my pizzerias, the following ingredients are always used: Campania mozzarella, Provolone del Monaco, Matese oregano, wild garlic, Cilento’s crusco pepper, San Marzano tomatoes, Piennolo tomatoes, and other local produce.
How did the 4-hands dinner with La Bottega come about? What was the collaboration process like?
For this beautiful collaboration, Antonio Miscellaneo and I created a tasting journey that fully expresses the concept of Italian-ness. We used Neapolitan ingredients that are practically impossible to find, such as Piennolo tomato, wild garlic, and Cilento crusco pepper. These are interpreted differently on both my pizzas and Antonio’s dishes.
What’s your favourite dish from this collaboration and why?
The Pizza Magma, which features crispy dough and a wonderful topping of warm and spicy cream of spicy pork sausage, homemade nduja and crunchy crusco pepper, basil, and salted ricotta.
How have your childhood memories influenced your culinary creations today?
I make my pizzas based on my memories because I was lucky enough to grow up with a grandmother who could cook well. The recipes of the Neapolitan tradition are always present on the menu and revisited on pizza, such as ragù, genovese, stewed meat, as well as pasta and peas in a frittata. For us Neapolitans, tradition is very important.
Congrats on being number one in the 50 Top Pizza World 2023. What are you working towards next?
After years of hard work and dedication, reaching first place on the 50 Top Pizza list was a dream come true. I have no intentions of stopping. My greatest wish is to continue making pizza and talking about pizza, not only in Italy but also all over the world.
