Contemporary Chinese jewellery brand Yewn marks a milestone with the launch of its Literati collection and the book Yewn: Contemporary Art Jewels and the Silk Road. A celebration of 25 years of creative evolution, the collection integrates the aesthetics and influence of traditional Chinese scholar-officials into modern jewellery. Culturally, these intellectuals and scholars contributed significantly to imperial Chinese history.
A highlight of the Literati line is the National Flower Square Ring, an ode to Singapore’s Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid. It’s a fitting tribute as this year also marks the house’s 22nd anniversary in Singapore, one of its most important markets outside Hong Kong. The flower symbolises the unity and resilience of the nation, says Dickson Yewn, its founder and creative director. He adds that in many ways, Singapore and Hong Kong are like sisters in that they have managed to create miracles despite having limited land resources.
Complementing the new jewellery art designs, the two-volume book explores the brand’s deep connection to the ancient Silk Road trade routes. The first is influenced by the lifestyles and romances of the imperial courts and the second showcases 12 Yewn collections inspired by the folk arts, religions, and philosophies along the Silk Road. “Yewn is dedicated to bridging the understanding between Eastern and Western cultures through the universal language of jewellery art,” says its creator.
The Literati collection transposes Eastern philosophical and Confucian traditions into contemporary jewellery. Replacing the brushwork are exquisite goldsmithing and sculpting techniques that weave cultural heritage and spiritual resonance into every creation.
Among the other significant pieces are the Hibiscus by the Water Square Ring, an interpretation of a painting by Tang Yin, one of the most notable painters in the history of Chinese art. Another is Narcissus by Zhao Mengjian, a delicate yellow agate and blackwood square bangle and reincarnation of accomplished poet, scholar and calligrapher Zhao Mengjian’s famous water lily painting.
As Yewn was in Singapore to present the Literati collection and the book, he spoke with us about his goal in creating art, the Vanda Miss Joachim ring, and the famous ring Michelle Obama wore in 2011 that introduced the brand to the rest of the world.
When creating Literati, why did you choose ancient Asian scholars-officials as your inspiration?
I can’t call it inspiration since that would mean it’s not mine. I don’t create jewellery art just to make money or show the world that I’m a contemporary Chinese jeweller. I wanted to revive one critical element in Asian art that would propel it to equal status with Western art—the Asian scholar. That’s the only antidote.
The world’s diversity essentially boils down to East and West, but our lifestyles are largely Western. The West buys Western goods made in Asia because they are cheap, while Asians buy Asian-inspired products made in the West because they are expensive.
Consider how many Asians flock to Van Cleef & Arpels or Cartier to purchase items inspired by their cultures. This is partly because Western scholars have studied psychology, anthropology, and history and understand what resonates with people.
Without this knowledge, you tend to follow trends, typically Western ones set by others, and ultimately, you are controlled by those who know more. This is why the Chinese scholar collection is so important. It aims to reclaim that knowledge and influence.
How does this collection represent the evolution of Yewn?
In the beginning, it’s easier to fool the world with symbolism and motifs. The Literati collection is a revolution, as it shows Chinese culture without Chinese motifs. If I design a plain dress without a dragon or temple motif, and you can tell immediately that it belongs to a certain culture, then that’s a successful and good design.
Launching a jewellery collection and a book simultaneously is quite a feat. What motivated you to do that?
Creating the collection alongside the book shows I’m a man on a mission. Rather than reviving ancient Chinese jewellery, my jewellery art depicts civilisation. It’s my goal to use jewellery as a pen to write a history book about the Chinese material and non-material culture.
I use women’s ultimate object of desire to tell the story of Chinese history. I want them to engage with it because if you’re investing in a piece, you should understand its significance, right? I recommend you read my book as well.
When Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld approached me about writing a book in 2016, she had never been to China and knew little about Chinese culture, so I challenged her to delve into my history. Juliet has worked for Sotheby’s and is one of the world’s most prominent jewellery writers. The manuscript was 600 pages when we finished, so the publisher advised us to split it into two volumes.
After 22 years, why is Singapore still a key market for Yewn?
Because Singapore is so Westernised, I believe its people feel they need to reconnect with their Chinese heritage, or perhaps I remind them of some of their forgotten cultural roots. In my opinion, Singapore is the most Western city in Asia, even more than Hong Kong.
Why did you create the Vanda Miss Joaquim ring?
It is my tribute to Singapore—a celebration of its unique identity and the beauty found in the hybridity of its cultures. Coming from monoracial Hong Kong, it’s inspiring to be
in a place where diverse races and cultures coexist. Beyond its intrinsic value, jewellery also serves as a reminder of this rich diversity.
Who is the Yewn customer?
Almost all of my customers are powerful women who are determined, decisive, and deeply rooted in their identities. Women in power only work with women in power; photo endorsements of celebrities wearing my jewellery do not resonate with them. Although many of Hong Kong’s top film stars wear my creations, I don’t need to demonstrate that to my customers since they wouldn’t appreciate it.
Michelle Obama wore a Yewn ring to a state dinner with Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip in 2011. How did that impact your brand?
There was a significant impact. Until a week after she wore the ring to that dinner, I had no idea Michelle Obama had purchased it from Bergdorf Goodman in New York City.Ironically, getting my square ring accepted was one of my biggest challenges.
I first created it in 2000, and that ring—the Yewn Ruyi Jadeite Square Ring—was made in 2003. That design had always been available, but just wouldn’t sell. However, after Michelle Obama was seen wearing it, everything changed. The same women who had previously rejected it suddenly asked, ‘Is that the ring Michelle wore? Let me try it… Okay, I’ll take two!’ It took 10 years for that ring to be accepted.
In contrast, I’ve encountered people who avoided buying the ring because of her. During an art fair in Dallas, a man flipped through my catalogue and saw a picture of Michelle wearing the ring. Seeing his wife about to buy it, he quickly pulled her away from my booth—he must have been a Republican. It is common for people not to support those with opposing political views. It may be a small piece of jewellery, but it’s a powerful symbol—much like Trump’s ear bandage today.
