The world of haute couture provides many inspirations. Its fabrics, shapes, accoutrements, and flowing grandeur can easily be translated into watchmaking. Chanel’s decorative horological offerings have borrowed iconic motifs from its handbags, watches, and even perfume bottles, including camellias (the founder’s favourite flower). The recent series of its métiers d’art watches, however, is based on the humble pincushion.
For Arnauld Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio, the connection between the seamstress’ tool and a fine timepiece was comically direct: both are worn on the wrist.
Photo: Chanel.
He believes the pincushion also “commands authority on the wrist, with presence and impact”. That impact is partly attributed to its size, which he boldly interprets in Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles. In all, there are five designs of 20 pieces, each a whopping 55m in diameter and filled with precious handcrafts to the very edges.
“I love the random design of needles on the surface of the cushion,” he says. “Whether organised or disorganised, the pinheads pricked into the fabric dome create a decorative effect that evolves as the work of the seamstress progresses. I have adopted the spirit of this tool to create a watch.”
Photo: Chanel.
The dials execute his vision with aplomb. The Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion Pearls Motif Watch drapes long necklaces, braided chains, and Byzantine brooches onto a black tweed-like dial that rises in relief. All the accessories are sculpted in yellow gold, lacquered, and set by hand. Encircling the dial is a row of diamonds and gold beads.
Another familiar icon appears in the Quilted Motif variant, where miniatures of Chanel’s famous handbags fill the watch face. An engraved and modelled black mother-of- pearl recreates the bag’s signature plumpness, while yellow gold chains complete the look alongside diamond charms and baguette diamonds.
Using three different techniques, the Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion Lace Motif Watch reimagines the camellia, integral to the maison’s identity. First, the yellow gold dial is engraved to give it that lacy texture, and then it is filled with Grand Feu enamel to give it depth and colour. The flowers were created using the decal technique.
Photo: Chanel.
Traditionally, decals have been used to create and transfer intricate patterns that would be difficult (or impossible) to achieve by hand, and can be adhered with heat and pressure to surfaces. In this case, successive decal layers create the camellia outline. Tiny gold beads and diamonds are scattered throughout the canvas as a final touch.
The last two designs are homages to tailoring. A Chanel tweed jacket in the making is displayed on the Tweed Motif model along with a tape measure, a thimble, and scissors, all sculpted in gold. On the periphery is a gold chain similar to those sewn inside every Chanel jacket to ensure a perfect fit.
The Embroidery Motif version features a blanket of snow-set diamonds. Meant to recall sequins glittering on black fabric, the convex disc of black-coated white gold offers a blinding display of 650 brilliant-cut stones, and is finished with a trim of tiny gold beads, each one set by hand.
Featuring high-precision quartz movements and water resistance to 30m, all five designs come with black matte grosgrain bracelets and buckles adorned with 45 gorgeous brilliant-cut diamonds.
Fascinated by designs borne out of practical need, Chastaignt has infused the watch world with a ripple of fun by turning mundane objects into into wearable objet d’art. “While its architecture has the boldness of simplicity, its oversized dial flirts with excess and offers an incredible space for expression,” he said. “I dreamed of this creation as a blank canvas for the most audacious métiers d’art.”
