The thing about Chanel fashion shows are that they’re grand in scale. No Chanel show is complete without an atmospheric set that transcends time, space, and everything else in between. The maison had once recreated an entire beach within the Grand Palais space, complete with undulating waves.
The Chanel spring/summer 2023 haute couture runway show however, was somewhat smaller in scale, yes. But the effect was still there with Xavier Veilhan’s interpretation of the theme as concocted by artistic director Virginie Viard.
In the collection notes, Viard was said to have brought Veilhan to the Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment as a starting point to the spring/summer 2023 haute couture collection. It was here that the founder’s bestiary became the centrepiece to the entire collection, inspiring Viard’s design choices as well as Veilhan’s set masterpiece.
As the crowd—including Tilda Swinton, G-Dragon, Sadie Sink, Kim Go-Eun and more—settled within the much smaller space of the Grand Palais Éphémère, a parade began to form. Tall beast-like sculptures made of cardboard, wood and paper were ushered in one by one—each reminded me of animal wood figurines most of perhaps grew up with as a child. They filled up the space in the middle and suddenly, a number of models clad in the haute couture collection proceeded to escape out of some of the sculptures.
And just like that, the set was transformed into a child-like animal parade of couture elegance.
Aside from the spring/summer 2023 couture pieces (a lot of which were in shades of whites and creams) The styling included ringmaster-like top hats and off-kilter bow ties that were styled with almost every look, no matter how incongruous. But that didn’t matter because an haute couture client wouldn’t be paying attention to these adornments; the array of immaculately crafted Chanel suiting and embroidered dresses would be the focus.
The collection’s highlights would have to be the subtle inclusions of animal motifs harkening to Gabrielle Chanel’s bestiary. They’re done in ways that are not gimmicky but instead, as accents that seemed to fade into the backdrop of beautiful fabrications. It was especially evident in the Chanel bridal look that closed the show: a breezy short number that was embroidered with swallows, complete with a veil in the same treatment.
It may have been a Chanel show that probably wasn’t as grand in scale as we’ve known it to be, but the couture creations didn’t shy away from the techniques and craftsmanship that a Chanel haute couture collection always is.
View the full Chanel spring/summer 2023 haute couture collection in the gallery below.
