A trailblazer, a vanguard, a rebel—Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel was all of those things. Despite her flagrant disregard for tradition, pomp, and circumstance, she eschewed gaudy glitz for classic appeal. Her jewellery, which she only created once, was infused with her unique philosophy.
Known as Bijoux de Diamants, the collection debuted in November 1932 and comprised over 50 creations made of platinum, gold and diamonds.
As with her clothes, they were light and easy to wear—a great departure from the extravagant and heavily set designs favoured by traditional French jewellery houses. Besides eliminating clasps, she also created pieces that were wearable in multiple ways, including necklaces that could be worn as tiaras or bracelets, and brooches that doubled as pendants.
The collection was dismantled shortly afterwards, but its purpose was accomplished: it had revitalised the battered diamond industry and redefined jewellery for women. Additionally, it showcased Gabrielle Chanel’s creativity and laid the foundation for the house’s future in jewellery.
Some 90 years later, Chanel pays homage to this glorious historical moment with the 1932 high jewellery collection that maintains the theme of heavenly bodies, purity of lines, freedom of movement, and the liberal use of diamonds because they “represent the greatest value for the smallest volume”, said the founder who transformed forever the way women dressed.
The 77 pieces revolves around three symbols: the comet, the moon, and the sun. The spiritual and superstitious Mademoiselle Chanel was fascinated by astrology and believed in the power of the stars.
From 23 to 28 March, approximately 60 pieces travelled to Singapore for the first time for a private exhibition at Marina Bay Sands. Following that, Chanel’s boutique at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands will host a public showcase of the collection from 1 to 6 April.
THANK HEAVENS!
The collection’s star piece, the Allure Céleste necklace, showcases all three symbols—the comet, the moon, and the sun. Amid a sea of shimmering round diamonds, two exceptional stones stand out: a 55.55-ct oval sapphire of an intense blue and a Type IIa DFL 8.05 ct pear-shaped diamond. In this transformable piece, the halos can be separated to become brooches, while the central row of diamonds can serve as a bracelet.
WHEN THE STARS ALIGN
On 34 pieces, whether singly or in constellations, the star is like a lucky charm that watches over the wearer’s destiny. Yet another key piece in Chanel’s 1932 collection is the Comète Constellation necklace, featuring two 10.08-ct D FL Type Ila diamonds that can be detached and worn in a ring and replaced by two comets. There are also the Comète Volute plastron and bracelet, masterpieces with oval diamonds weighing a symbolic 19.32 carats each. As well as diamonds, sapphires, and opals, pearls provide the constellations with hypnotic fire and brilliance.
BRIGHTER THAN THE SUN
Mademoiselle Gabrielle’s adulation of the glorious sun is embodied in 24 beautiful jewellery pieces that capture the power, beauty, and magnificence of this heavenly body. The Soleil 19 Août necklace, one of the highlights of the entire 1932 collection, features a whopping 22.1-ct Fancy Vivid Yellow cushion-cut diamond surrounded by a montage of white and yellow diamonds. In the spirit of modernity, there is an option to attach the stone to a ring. The sculptural Soleil Contrasté necklace is a masterpiece of yellow gold with immaculate white round-cut diamonds, while the Soleil Doré features an oval-cut diamond hanging from a plaque of diamonds set in white and yellow gold.
OVER THE MOON
A symbol of femininity, rebirth and immortality, the moon appears on 18 new pieces. Capturing its ethereal beauty is the Lune Éternelle brooch set with a 3-ct marquise- cut diamond and surrounded by round-cut diamonds and pearls. In the Lune Étincelante set, Chanel designs a necklace with a 5.02-ct D IF Type IIa round-cut diamond enclosed within a latticework of sparkling diamonds. The matching brooch shows off a 6.18-ct DFL Type Ila marquise diamond paired with a 1.51-ct D IF round diamond encircled by halos of diamonds linked by two dangling rows of bezel-set diamonds.
Creative Direction and Styling: Chia Wei Choong
Director: Stefan Khoo
DP: Kyaw Phone Myat
CA: Joel Tan
Gaffer: Dzul
Grip: Zhi Xian
Video Editor: Ya Hui
Hair: Sean Ang
Makeup: Clarence Lee
Featuring: Alison Carroll
