Since slithering into Bvlgari’s repertoire in 1948, the alluring Serpenti has transcended time, trends, and creativity. Captivating women the world over, it has become a symbol of rebirth and continual transformation, embodying the essence of elegance and female empowerment.
Last year, the brand celebrated the 75th anniversary of the Serpenti, marking this milestone with innovations that continue to push the boundaries of design and craftsmanship.Its allure lies in Bvlgari’s ability to evolve the icon while maintaining its essence.
Initially, its stylised designs were heavily influenced by the Tubogas technique, through which industrial-inspired, flexible metal strips were coiled to mimic the serpent’s sleek, sinuous shape. Combined with the brand’s goldsmithing skills, Serpenti’s first designs were jewellery watches that wrapped sensuously around the wrist.
This innovation set the stage for more figurative interpretations in the decades that followed. As the snake’s head became more ornate, precious stones adorned it, embodying its hypnotic charm.
Capable of capturing the spirit of each era while staying true to its heritage, the Serpenti’s transformative capacity resonates with newer and younger generations without compromising its legendary status. Even as it enters its 76th year, its legacy of innovation and elegance remains intact. The 2024 Viper jewellery creations and Tadao Ando x Serpenti timepieces masterfully illustrate this duality to perfection.
The new Serpenti Viper additions epitomise Bvlgari’s spirit of transformation. In yellow or rose gold, they highlight the sparkle of demi-pavé diamonds and play with the versatile appeal of the stylised snake scales, while maintaining the collection’s distinctive geometric lines.
A standout piece is the single wrapping ring in rose or yellow gold. Diamond accents add a dazzling glow to the snake’s head and tail, capturing the essence of Serpenti Viper’s essence of bold design and refined elegance.
The collection also introduces striking new earrings in rose or yellow gold, continuing the theme of captivating curves and modern lines. These pay tribute to Bvlgari’s unparalleled artisanal expertise, with the emblematic scale motif enhanced by the sparkle of demi-pavé diamonds.
In addition, there is a new pendant necklace featuring a stylised yellow gold serpent adorned with diamond pavé, gracefully coiling around a gold chain. Incorporating iconic Serpenti Viper aesthetics with modern flair, it exudes strength and charisma.
Completing the new collection is a beloved classic: the Serpenti Viper single coil bangle, executed in yellow gold with demi-pavé diamonds. It perfectly encapsulates the Serpenti’s versatile and eternally contemporary spirit. Magnificent when worn alone, you can also stack it to create an eye-catching look.
a collaboration for the ages
The icon goes through yet another renewal as Bvlgari introduces Tadao Ando X Bvlgari Serpenti, the first artistic collaboration in the Serpenti Tubogas collection with the celebrated Japanese architect. The dials of the four watches combine the fleeting beauty of nature—a theme dear to Ando—with Bvlgari’s iconic designs to beautifully capture the changing moods of the forest throughout the seasons in green aventurine, tiger’s eye, white, and pink mother-of-pearl.
While Ando previously worked with Bvlgari on two minimalist Octo Finissimo references that focused on the essence of time through the pure lines of a spiral and the Mikazuki waxing crescent moon concept, this new partnership marks his inaugural venture into the Serpenti universe. Through a quartet of watches, the unique series explores time and transformation within nature’s cycles.
Using marquetry, the collaboration visually presents the four seasons through Ando’s architectural lens. Bvlgari’s skilled artisans translated his vision onto the watch dials by choosing the most visually appealing hardstone fragments. Their next step was to trace and cut each piece meticulously.
Finally, the fragments were carefully placed and fitted, resulting in an impressive tapestry of colours and light reflections. Two rows of diamonds on the bezel further accentuate this artistic arrangement and bring the striking serpent to life.
The first of the four limited editions to be unveiled at the summer solstice, natsu flaunts vivid green aventurine that captures the intensity of a sun-drenched forest, set against a dynamic backdrop of yellow gold and steel.
As autumn, or aki, approaches, the warm, golden hues of tiger’s eye—contrasting against rose gold and enhanced with a pink rubellite on the crown—evoke the rich, fiery tones of the leaves on trees.
Featuring iridescent white mother-of-pearl and a gleaming steel case and bracelet, fuyu, or winter, represents nature’s stark yet stunning beauty during the colder months when everything slows down. Finally, heralding a season of rebirth, a time celebrated in Japan with the fleeting bloom of cherry blossom trees, spring, or haru, is represented by pink mother-of-pearl.
The new additions to the Serpenti Tubogas collection mark the seasons through to spring 2025. Each limited edition also carries Ando’s signature inscribed on the caseback and is presented in a specially crafted box.
For connoisseurs, there will be 20 exclusive boxed sets with all four creations available.
