Many of the most recognisable jewellery designs of today were dreamed up at least half a century ago; after all, it takes time for something to gain in legend and desirability. But when Bulgari’s B.zero1 rings burst onto the scene in 1999, poised to take on the new millennium and the electrifying energy that came with it, it became immediately evident that these rings were destined for icon status. Deceptively simple but brimming with intricate detail, the versatile B.zero1 was exactly what the next generation yearned for.
The genius behind the B.zero1’s design lies in its ability to marry the successes of the past with the variability of the future. Its overall form was inspired by the majestic stadia structure of the Colosseum in Rome, but the ring also bore two of Bulgari signatures: the Tubogas and the double logo.
The Tubogas technique takes its name from a technique originally used in the production of flexible gas tubing. The design features smooth, interlocking bands of metal that wrap around the wrist or neck without the need for clasps or closures, creating the seamless and flexible jewellery of the brand’s famed Serpenti collection in the 1940s. In the B.zero1, the bands were reimagined in a minimalist way as the ring’s central looping band. Clasping the band on the top and bottom are two flat rings engraved with the double logo, which first made its appearance on the bezel of a special edition watch created for Bulgari’s best clients in 1975.
Such simplicity encourages appreciation of detail and craftsmanship. The very first rings were fashioned from yellow or white gold, earning the B.zero1 the moniker “the bolt” due to its industrial character. Over the years, the B.zero1’s popularity surged, prompting an expansion of colours and forms. In addition to the rings, the collection grew to encompass chains, pendants, bracelets, charms, and multi-length necklaces, each retaining the collection’s core DNA. Some glisten with diamonds, while others are embellished with rainbow-bright semi-precious stones. Furthermore, every piece is designed to be layered, stacked, and mixed, offering numerous possibilities for personal expression.
Before long, Bulgari’s innovative spirit extended to materials. In recent iterations, the Tubogas bands have evolved to include renditions in white, black, and even bronze ceramic. Though ceramic is a relatively modern choice for jewellery, these editions actually pay homage to the Chandra collection of 1994, which featured smooth porcelain beads. In a bold move in 2013, Bulgari replaced the traditional gold caps with multi-hued marble in shades of green bowenite, lapis blue, and tobacco brown, adding an unexpected classical twist to the contemporary lines of the B.zero1. What’s more, each ring is a truly unique piece due to the natural veins and colour variations inherent in marble.
B.zero1 design collaborations
Icons attract icons, so artistic luminaries eventually found themselves collaborating with the jewellery house on special editions. In 2010, renowned British-Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor lent his artistic vision to the B.zero1’s Tubogas bands, transforming them into smooth, shiny mirrors that reflect his penchant for exploring the interplay of light and form. In another notable partnership in 2017, the inimitable Zaha Hadid left her indelible mark by creating the B.zero1 Design Legend ring. The late architect, known for her use of seamless curves and organic lines, reconstructed the central looping band into undulating lines of gold that intersect to form a captivating, curvilinear structure.
Naturally, Bulgari is just as capable of defying its own conventions and pushing the boundaries of creativity. The central bands have occasionally taken the form of waves, while the flat rings have been rendered in various shapes. Bulgari also played with different volumes and thickness, offering one to five-band rings that cater to assorted tastes. In 2020, it embraced its own rebellious spirit and introduced the B.zero1 Rock collection, which boldly adorned the central band with studs, an idea taken from Tubogas chokers from the 1980s.
Still on this innovative trajectory, Bulgari unveiled additions last year that included a gem-set necklace and a ring that combined gold, black ceramic, and diamonds — a blend that required two years of intense development and experiment to ensure harmony. For 2024, the collection is enriched with some bands that forego the traditional loops and instead feature an intricate lattice paved with diamonds of different sizes for maximum sparkle.
As global markets expand and a flood of brands continue to vie for consumer attention, the term “icon” is constantly under threat of losing any real meaning in contemporary discourse. Yet, amidst the noise, the B.zero1 has been quietly but firmly maintaining its status as a model for edgy preciousness. Defiantly authentic and always relevant, the B.zero1 will no doubt continue to endure and evolve well into the next millennium.