Simplicity is often lauded as the pinnacle of good design, but not enough is said about the ability to harmonise multiple disparate elements into something that is coherent and tasteful. As far as classic rings go, Boucheron’s Quatre may not be the most ascetic, but it is a masterclass in synchrony.
Two decades ago, the Quatre ring emerged, uniting four distinct “codes” sourced from Boucheron’s rich archives to forge a singular, gender-neutral design. The first element, the Double Godron, is architectural, with raised bands that resemble fluting dating back to the maison’s creations from the 1860s.
The second motif, the Clou de Paris, pays homage to the cobbled streets of Paris and the address of Boucheron’s landmark boutique on Place Vendome, where it has stood since 1893. The third code is a dazzling row of diamonds, which attests to Boucheron’s jewellery DNA, and the last is the Grosgrain motif, named after the ribbed ribbon and inspired by founder Frederic Boucheron’s father, who was a draper specialising in silk and lace.
Crafting a Quatre ring requires tremendous savoir-faire and precision, with tolerances measured in nano-millimetres. Using a press — eschewing glue or solder — the four bands are meticulously assembled by hand until they softly and precisely click into place. These traditional techniques are supported by technology, with machines taking over processes like turning — where precious metals are shaped, carved, and engraved — to achieve exacting contours.
Since the ring itself is the result of daring experimentation, Boucheron encourages the same creativity and expression in its wearers. What began as a single ring in 2004 has since evolved into a comprehensive collection that includes stackable bracelets, sautoir and collar necklaces, earrings, ear clips, and even hair jewellery.
Introducing new colours and renditions is a natural progression of popular jewellery lines, but creative director Claire Choisne has been an enthusiastic pusher of boundaries. In 2020, Choisne incorporated denim into a Quatre ring and cuff bracelet, with the juxtaposition of white gold and diamonds against the casual fabric exemplifying the brand’s commitment to unconventional yet playful design.
In 2021, she ventured far beyond the realms of traditional jewellery to partner with Saint-Gobain, a French corporation specialising in high-performance building materials. The collaboration birthed a holographic coating that could be sprayed in layers onto ceramic, giving the Quatre ring a spectrum of shimmering hues that respond dynamically to light.
A year after, Boucheron introduced Cofalit into the collection, a recycled material made from asbestos waste that resembles charcoal in its raw form. But months of research and processing helped elevate it into a jewellery-worthy material reminiscent of polished onyx, giving us an accessory that is not just elegant, but also meaningful.
The latest departure from tradition is the Quatre Aluminium, a capsule collection featuring resin and aluminium. The metal’s extreme lightness is a striking contrast to traditional gold, but its delicate structure poses a challenge in the gem-setting process.
To celebrate the Quatre’s 20th anniversary, Boucheron decided to infuse its inherently rigid form with some fluidity and movement, creating the Quatre ribbon as the anniversary collection’s hero design. Seven exquisite pieces — including necklaces, bracelets, a belt, and a hair jewel — showcase precise hand assembly, each emphasising unity and amplification.
The collar necklace, for example, is made up of 50 Quatre rings, while the spool-shaped bracelet combines two cuff bangles that sandwich 10 thinner bracelets. Each design is available in Quatre Classique and Quatre Radiant editions, but the former includes an extra-precious version that uses spessartite garnets on the Double Godron band and yellow sapphires on the Grosgrain band, with a brown PVD Clou de Paris loop to add matte contrast.
“You can’t create an icon. Icons are wrought over time, and they gain that status because they strike a chord with people,” remarks Boucheron CEO Helene Poulit-Duquesne. “An icon isn’t designed to be an icon. It’s the clients who decide.”
