Amidst the upheaval caused by Covid-19, Claire Choisne, the creative director of Boucheron, sought inspiration for her upcoming high jewellery collection by focusing on the glimmer of hope at the end of the tunnel. She decided that the jewels from her next collection would embody freedom, be unfettered by limitations, and be unconfined by conventions.
Gradually, her mood boards became filled with vibrant colours, cheerful styles, geometric patterns, and playful designs. As she looked back to the 1980s for inspiration, she incorporated elements of pop art and the rebellious style of Memphis artists into a new high jewellery collection like no other.
This July, Boucheron launched its Carte Blanche More is More high jewellery collection, a 30-piece tribute to its technical prowess and audacious creativity. Many designs push the limits of high jewellery making, such as an oversized bow made out of diamond, gold, magnesium, and bio acetate. This material is typically used in the eyewear industry and is composed of wood paste and cotton fibres, making it incredibly lightweight. This impressive bow measures 29cm yet weighs only 94g. Another material contributing to the bow’s lightness is magnesium, which was previously never used on high jewellery.
Magnesium is incredibly light, weighing only 30 percent of aluminium and 10 times less dense than gold. To utilise the complete capabilities of this new material, Boucheron’s designers and craftsmen had to engage in a rigorous research and development phase.
The novel material is also used to create several other pieces in the collection, such as a hair jewel and a trio of brooches resembling an audio jack. The former is a ponytail cuff in white gold, bio acetate and magnesium with diamonds and lacquer, while the three brooches feature magnesium frames painted in vibrantly coloured resin and set with diamonds. These brooches are versatile and can be worn on a tuxedo collar or an evening gown, challenging traditional gender norms in true Boucheron fashion.
Another remarkable creation is a set with a bedazzled pocket sleeve and an oversized bangle larger than a tennis ball. The precious pocket, probably the most challenging piece to create in this collection, is made up of 3D-printed titanium elements mounted on stretch fabric to mimic the flexibility of cloth. Set with onyx, diamonds, lacquer and gold, the pocket can be easily attached to any fabric thanks to a separate magnetic component that can be secured to the back of the garment.
The orb-shaped cuff that is part of this set celebrates the versatility of Boucheron’s jewels. Crafted from anodised titanium and adorned with tsavorites and black lacquer, it can be transformed into a beautiful cuff bracelet or two rings, offering multiple wearing options. With this unusual jewellery pairing, Boucheron breaks away from traditional definitions of a parure (a set of jewels meant to be work together) by offering something completely unexpected.
The collection also features other remarkable pieces, such as brooches designed to look like they are embroidered with gold and precious stones inspired by iron-on patches, a candy-coloured choker that takes cues from the Rubik’s cube, and a set of long dangling brooches that can be worn as earrings or attached to the bottom of a hoodie.
diamonds, grey spinels, pink sapphires and mother-of-pearl.Photo: Boucheron.
Among the necklaces, there is an oversized chain made of titanium components with gemstones and Hyceram links that are laser-painted with a cartoonish effect, giving the necklace a three-dimensional trompe-l’oeil appearance.
Few jewellers can evoke the same sense of awe and wonder as Boucheron. Each of its fascinating creations stands as a testament to its unyielding spirit of innovation, and every jewel becomes a unique expression of the maison’s visionary craftsmanship.
