Rows of ham hocks dangled precariously above my head as I jostled with some 20 others to reach the bar at Casa Gandarias. Once I caught sight of the delectable pintxos (say “peen-chos”) sitting behind clear glass—I mustered the courage to yell out my order. “Croqueta de jamon,” and quickly prayed I hadn’t butchered the pronunciation.
Nothing had prepared me for my first pintxo bar hopping experience. Not even the fact that I live in Singapore, one of the world’s most renowned street food destinations. As far as Spanish cities go, San Sebastián in Northern Spain’s Basque Country is on another level food-wise. It has the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants per square kilometre in Europe, with 12 restaurants holding 18 Michelin stars in the 2025 guide.
Among them is the two Michelin-starred Amelia by Paulo Airaudo, where I enjoyed a splendid meal combining Basque culinary traditions with Spanish, Italian, and Asian influences. However, instead of inspiring me to explore other restaurants of this type, it inspired me to explore San Sebastián’s pintxo bar culture, which pairs bite-sized dishes
with drinks.
As early as the early 20th century, local bars served affordable snacks on toothpicks to entice hungry passersby. In place of simple slices of bread topped with ham or cheese, modern versions offer premium ingredients such as sea urchin and crab, providing a feast for the senses.
The practice of hopping from bar to bar for a drink and a snack is known as “txikiteo”. A good rule is not to order too many pintxos at each stop. Pace yourself to maximise your appetite and last the night. In the days that followed, pintxo fever overtook me, driving me to devour the most delectable bites I am still craving. Here are some of the best pintxo bars to stop at:
Atari Gastroteka
Springtime (March to May) is prime time for relaxing on Atari Gastroteka’s outdoor terrace or on the steps of the adjacent 18th-century Santa María Church with wine in one hand and a plate of pintxos in the other. Since 2010, the bar has served pintxos with ingredients like hake, cod, and tuna fresh from the market. Remember to order the egg salad and prawn on toasted bread, or try the black pudding, which is torched to perfection for a golden brown crust just before serving.
Casa Gandarias
A busy spot in the historical Parte Vieja (Old Town), Casa Gandarias runs a pintxo bar at the front and a restaurant at the back. I stayed at the bar where I was happily satiated with the house specials scrawled on a large blackboard. Must-tries include the txuleta beef steak on bread, served with a slice of sweet, juicy peach, as well as the croqueta de jamon ibérico filled with rich and creamy bechamel, smoked ham, and parsley.
Bar Martinez
There have been long queues at this pintxo bar on 31 de agosto—one of the most popular streets for pintxos in San Sebastián’s Old Town—since it opened in 1942. It offers everything from the classic gilda (skewered guindilla pepper), Cantabrian anchovy fillet, and manzanilla olive, first served in the 1940s, to more recent creations such as the red tuna with onions and a marmitako puree. The flavourful stuffed red pepper filled with longfin tuna, tartare sauce, and sherry vinaigrette had me ordering seconds and thirds.
La Cuchara de San Telmo
You won’t find any bar-top displays at La Cuchara de San Telmo, tucked away between Valle Lersundi and Santa Corda in the shadow of San Telmo Museum. From crispy-skinned, tender suckling pig and roasted foie gras with apple compote to my favourite kokotxas (cod cheeks) in olive oil, garlic, and parsley sauce with an irresistible jelly-like texture, everything here is made fresh to order. Be prepared to face an elbow-to-elbow crowd while waiting for your name to be called out.
Bar Txepetxa
A retro, warm wood interior welcomes you to Bar Txepetxa in Donostia, San Sebastián, which specialises in marinated anchovy pintxos on toast. Staff will gladly strike up a conversation, but the delicious marinade recipe remains a closely guarded secret.
The anchovy pintxos topped with crab meat, sea urchin, salmon, or vegetables—making them light and full of umami—are constantly on demand. My recommendation: the jardinera with a sauce of red and green peppers, chillies, and onions that balances the saltiness of the fish perfectly.
Bar Goiz-Argi
If you love gambas (grilled Spanish prawns), then visit Bar Goiz-Argi near Bretxa Public Market for its brocheta de gamba during your trip. Served on toast, the gambas are prepared with vinegar and pepper dressing. Grab some extra bread to mop up the fresh and briny juice of these plump prawns. There is also squid and octopus along with the more traditional mari juli, a cold pintxo of smoked salmon, preserved anchovy, and green pepper on bread, seasoned with vinaigrette sauce.
Bar Sport
Its name had me imagining a nondescript sports bar with ordinary food, but nothing could be further from the truth. Bar Sport in Fermin Calbeton, Donostia, might display the day’s sports match, but it also serves the best ribeye sliders, say locals. The curried sea urchin cream and squid stuffed with crabmeat were equally hearty and delightful. The only downside? You’ll have to squeeze your way to the bar and deal with the possibility of the waiters forgetting your orders amid the chaos.
La Viña
Need a break from savoury pintxos? You can’t call yourself a true dessert fan until you’ve visited the birthplace of Basque cheesecake. The family-run La Viña at 31 de Agosto Kalea, 3, in San Sebastián’s Old Town, opened in 1959, and second-generation Chef Santi Rivera created the famous cheesecake in 1988. Served fresh from the counter, it has a flan-like texture and consists of cream cheese, eggs, cream, sugar, and flour. It’s an addictive treat with a caramelised top that’s just shy of burnt.
Drinks to pair with your pintxos
Sidra
Traditionally made from fermented apple juice, with no added sugar or carbonic acid, this local cider is crisp and delicious. The sweet and tangy beverage aims to refresh the palate between pintxos.
Txikito
From the Basque word “txikito”, which means “little”, this is a small glass of wine. It contains less than 60ml of red or white wine each, and is perfect for pacing yourself.
Txakoli
Txakoli is a dry, semi-sparkling white wine with high acidity from the Spanish Basque Country. Best enjoyed with seafood, the zesty and fruity beverage is traditionally poured in a dramatic arcing stream from a height of 30cm or higher. This helps aerate the wine and release its natural effervescence.
