Some time in the noughties, a self-taught chef unveiled “Sex on a Beach” on the menu of his restaurant in Hong Kong. The dish was presented as a used pink condom made out of a konjac and kappa mixture and strewn across a bed of sand constructed with powdered shiitake mushrooms. It was finished (pun fully intended) with a white and gooey substance comprising honey and Yunnan ham.
Suffice it to say, the audacious dish divided the gastronomic community. But still, it catapulted both man and his joint to fame. Or, arguably, notoriety.
That culinarian is Alvin Leung, who has for years stylised himself “The Demon Chef” and is known for a style of cooking he calls “X-Treme Chinese”, so imaginably, he is no stranger to putting out radical dishes. The 62-year-old holds two Michelin stars for his restaurant Bo Innovation, once referred to as “the El Bulli of the East” by writer Mark Rozzo, and is a familiar face on TV, having appeared as a judge in all seven seasons of MasterChef Canada.
At present, he also owns R&D in Toronto and a restaurant here. Located in The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore, 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung serves modern Asian cuisine and puts forth appetisers such as Foie Gras Kaya Toast.
Last month, it launched a Tropical Sunday Champagne Brunch buffet, but despite being a distinguished experimenter (or X-Tremist?), Leung keeps the options surprisingly elementary: the cold seafood station includes Alaskan snow crab and oysters; the meats spread, pasture-fed lamb and Hokkaido pork belly; and the sashimi station, Tuna Akami and Hiramasa Kingfish. That said, the usual suspects are fresh and hit the spot.
There are also Chinese and Indian cuisine staples and pasta with six types of sauces to choose from, one of which is sambal and calamansi. Sambal and calamansi pasta just might be the edgiest offering in the lineup and is a palatable mix that satisfies both Eastern and Western tastebuds.
The star of the show, though, is the laksa. The noodles are perfectly springy; the ingredients, a copious amount; and the gravy, nicely lemak but not overly rich. The buffet version is not served with its signature addition of onsen quail eggs and house-made dried shrimp floss, but all things considered, it’s little wonder why it’s $41 on the delivery à la carte menu.
Also, the desserts are finely textured and sweetened. My favourites are the Peranakan kuehs, all of which are meticulously wrapped and layered, but the European varieties like the matcha financier and raspberry profiterole are as stellar in quality.
As for the champagne, it is speedily refilled and available in four package tiers: Telmont Réserve Brut; Telmont Rosé; Billecart Rosé; and Billecart Blanc de Blancs. The cocktails feature both classics and a Tiki range, and in being shaken and stirred by bar manager Edriane Lim, who was previously behind the counter at Atlas Bar, they are well-balanced and dry when they need to be.
Photo: The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore.
I do have some gripes: while the charcuterie spread punched below its weight, it wasn’t as dismal as the har gao from the dim sum station, which was so cold the skin had hardened. It is perhaps positioned at the end of the line for good reason.
Then, the music—the playlist was mystifying. The on-site harpist-singer at first strummed to world and electronic music worthy of a Buddha Bar compilation but then abruptly belted out pop hit A Thousand Years by Christina Perri. It was immediately followed up with Moonlight by Azaleh, which is an ambient and future garage piece. Plus, it was all a bit too loud. Good thing the drinks were flowing.
