In 2022, Van Cleef & Arpels celebrated white diamonds to stunning effect with two high jewellery collections celebrating their unparalleled brilliance. In the first collection, Legend of Diamonds – 25 Mystery Set Jewels collection, the maison designed 25 masterpieces featuring 67 diamonds cut from an exceptional 910-ct rough diamond. Christened the Lesotho Legend, it is the fifth largest in both size and quality ever mined and combines a perfect D colour and a highly sought-after Type 2A chemical composition.
A few months later, Van Cleef & Arpels launched the Legend of Diamonds – White Diamond Variations, an 82-piece collection celebrating the timelessness of the king of stones and its prominence throughout the maison’s 117-year history.
Approximately 30 pieces from both collections were unveiled for the first time in South-east Asia at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok earlier this year. They were displayed alongside other diamond-set high jewellery pieces and vintage pieces from the house’s Heritage Collection as part of a weeklong private event.
“It’s important to remember that Van Cleef & Arpels has always been a jeweller of diamonds since the beginning,” says Hugues de Pins, managing director of Van Cleef & Arpels Southeast Asia and Oceania.
Our interview takes place in the hotel’s renowned Author’s Lounge, where the L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts has taken up temporary residence. The nomadic campus is supported by the house and focuses on the education of the jewelled arts. During its short stint in Bangkok, it offers diamond-related seminars, courses, and workshops.
Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels.
“Alfred van Cleef came from a family of stone cutters and Estelle Arpels hailed from a family of diamond traders. This says it all. When they got married and eventually opened the doors to their boutique at Place Vendôme, it was to sell diamond jewellery,” he continues.
The founders’ natural affinity towards diamonds, of course, continued from one generation to the next. “Today, we are still benefiting from this—not just from the know-how and expertise, but more importantly, the tight relationships with diamond traders. It is for this reason that our diamonds have an incomparable quality. Additionally, our stone department would never acquire a stone shown to another jeweller before us. When it comes to sourced diamonds and stones, we are always the first in line.”
Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels.
What period in Van Cleef & Arpels’ heritage most reflects its role as a diamond jewellery purveyor?
The 1930s. It was one of the most creative periods of the maison’s history and jewellery history in general. During this decade, the family travelled to India, Thailand, and China and was influenced by different cultures.
Renée Puissant, the daughter of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, was also creative director during this time. With her uncles, Claude and Louis Arpels, she designed some of the most iconic pieces that still exist today.
The 1930s continue to influence our designers. Over the years, we have always returned to this period of our history. It’s almost a century ago, but the designs are still relevant today. We were already using incredible stones, especially diamonds, for our creations.
With the rise in the popularity of coloured stones, do diamonds still hold their status and interest?
Absolutely. The value of diamonds is eternal, and for good reason. Considering our level of quality, they are probably the rarest and purest stones we can find.
The Lesotho Legend is an example of a rough diamond with Type IIA clarity and flawless quality that has been entirely intact since discovery. It is an incredible feeling when you realise that such rare diamonds were created millions of years ago and travelled from deep within the earth to your wrist or neck. No other stone can achieve this. Knowing we are only here for a few years on this planet, but the stone will continue to live—that’s a very powerful eternal message.
Diamonds remain the most popular choice for wedding and engagement rings. Is the brand planning to expand its bridal line?
We will try to keep a balance between bridal and the more creative collections. Even our bridal collection is quite artistic as we are not just selling one solitaire on a ring. The designs always reflect the creativity and design of Van Cleef & Arpels. This is what clients appreciate when they buy an engagement ring from us; they know that it’s not just one, two or three beautiful diamonds, but also a combination of techniques and aesthetics.
Van Cleef & Arpels has been a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) for many years. In an era when social responsibility is a hot topic, do clients expect transparency?
Yes, of course! It’s a good question, too, because it’s at the core of our concerns. We ensure that sourcing is clean and respectful of human rights, mining codes and guidelines. Our clients find this reassuring. When they purchase stones from us, they know they can track and trace them.
