When you’re nestled in the comfort of a sea villa, jotting down your travels in the middle of a raging storm feels almost romantic. Mine perches elegantly on stilts over the Straits of Malacca, a 55-sqm abode that’s a signature of Pangkor Laut Resort.
The villas are made from meranti and chengal wood, making them strong enough to withstand torrential downpours, according to Segar Sithambaram, director of guest liaison.
Pangkor Laut Resort has stood on Pangkor Island for 30 years and is considered one of Asia’s most luxurious resorts. However, by the looks of its well-maintained rooms and amenities, it is hard to tell the grande dame’s age.
Linked by wooden walkways to create the feeling of a traditional Malay village, each sea villa features a large balcony with sun loungers, a bathroom with an oversized tub, and a ceiling-mounted, ocean-view shower. Accommodation options include hill and garden villas, and private estates far from the sea, tucked away in the forest.
Modern amenities, like a coffee machine and strong Wi-Fi connection, don’t detract from the fact that you’re immersed in nature. With oriental pied hornbills that hang out in the resort’s public areas and a sea almond tree filled with bats, the resort makes a great destination for spotting wildlife.
Located on a 120-ha private continental island featuring rocky outcrops and white sand beaches, its tagline is “one island, one resort”. It covers 25 percent of the island. Most of the remaining land belongs to a virgin rainforest estimated to be more than two million years old.
I explore the lush forest during a 90-minute rainforest hike led by resident naturalist Einstein, who enthusiastically regales my group with tales of the creatures that live there. Although long-tailed macaques and monitor lizards are common sightings, we were lucky to see a rare viper snake resting. If you don’t want sunburn and itchy bumps, sports shoes, a sun hat, and mosquito repellent are must-packs. Thankfully, every villa has a healing balm for insect bites on its bedside table.
The hike ends at Emerald Bay, a tranquil spot away from the resort’s crowds. A dip in the azure waters tempts me, but I opt to head to Chapman’s Bar instead. Located in Emerald Bay, it is named after F. Spencer Chapman, a famous British colonel, who sought refuge at Emerald Bay before swimming 45m out to sea to be rescued by a Royal Navy submarine, the HMS Statesman, in 1945.
Pangkor Laut’s beauty and tranquillity left a lasting impression on Chapman, and his time on the island is detailed in his book The Jungle is Neutral. When Pangkor Laut Resort was built, the Emerald Bay establishment was named Chapman’s Bar to mark the rendezvous point where he had escaped with the submarine. Chapman’s has a white sandy beach overlooking the bay and serves Asian and Western specialties.
Kaliama’s banana leaf curry is a delicious introduction to Malaysia’s multi-cultural cuisine. With a vibrant spread of curries, vegetables, pickles, and rice, the dish pays homage to the namesake veteran chef who has worked in the kitchen for two decades. Fish and chips made with freshly caught local sea bass and a zesty fruit rojak are other crowd-pleasers.
Besides trekking, a leisurely sunset cruise is an ideal way to take in the other sights. As the sun sets, we board a luxury yacht that circles the island. Canapés, house wine, beer, and soft drinks are served.
Nightfall brings enticing dining options. Uncle Lim’s Kitchen overlooks Royal Bay and is named after a chef who has worked with the resort since it opened. The restaurant specialises in nyonya and Hockchew cuisine, also known as Fuzhou, and promotes communal dining.
Highlights include Uncle Lim’s fantasy prawns and lor-bak. For the former, the fresh tiger prawns are stir-fried with rich black bean sauce, while in the latter, spiced, deep-fried chicken is wrapped in bean curd skin.
Both dishes were well-balanced, focusing on the ingredients’ xian wei or umami.
At Fisherman’s Cove, a fine-dining restaurant, guests can enjoy seafood dishes featuring the fresh catch of the day. Sustainable fishing practices are the focus.
As my dining companions rave about the pan-fried Manong River Manong jade perch and the tuna ragu pasta, I am drawn to the herb crusted rack of lamb. Paired with grilled king oyster mushrooms and drizzled with chimichurri sauce, the lamb’s robust flavours shine.
In addition to the great food, one cannot visit Pangkor Laut Resort without stopping at the Spa Village.
With its tranquil pavilions and water features, the village reminds me of a peaceful oasis. Its extensive treatment menu showcases the healing cultures of the region, including Malay, Chinese, Japanese, Balinese, and Indian techniques.
Even if you prefer a simple hour-long massage, you should try one of the spa’s signature three-hour sessions. Mine begins with a complimentary 45-minute bathhouse ritual incorporating various Asian bathing traditions, including the Chinese foot pounding technique to improve blood circulation, the Malay “circulating” bath, the Japanese rotenburu dip, and the Shanghainese scrub to exfoliate the skin.
Following my cleaning, I begin the three-hour Royal Secrets of Puteri Lindungan Bulan treatment. My upper back knots melt away during a traditional Malay massage, lulling me to sleep. After that, a relaxing facial, a hair cream bath, and another body scrub follow. I cannot bear to split apart the petals and lime slices arranged so beautifully as I step into the fragrant milk bath. Afterwards, I settle into a sauna-like contraption for scented body steaming, but I leave after five minutes as the heat overwhelms me. With a glowing complexion, I stroll back to my villa with skin as smooth as a baby’s bottom.
While a relaxing beach holiday can soothe a weary soul, nothing beats The
Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur for a city retreat. I spent a night here before heading to Pangkor Laut Resort. Three hours by car and 15 minutes by speedboat separate the two properties, making a city-to-beach getaway an ideal option.
The Ritz-Carlton Club access is included in my club-level executive deluxe room, complete with a marble bathroom. Among the benefits are 24-hour butler service, six complimentary culinary presentations per day at the Club Lounge, and discounts at the hotel’s Spa Village. It offers ancient healing practices combined with modern techniques for city travellers seeking tranquility between meetings, sightseeing, shopping, and
hanging out.
A big part of its success is the use of locally sourced natural ingredients that respect the region’s heritage. My 50-minute Balinese massage included rolling motions along with acupressure at varying tempos that left me thoroughly invigorated.
On the dining front, Li Yen, meaning ‘beautiful garden’, celebrates classic Chinese cuisine. The Michelin selected restaurant serves comforting yet well-executed dishes like sea grouper soup with vegetables and pan-fried Chinese-style beef fillet.
With the mid-autumn festival just around the corner then, I enjoyed a preview tasting of the hotel’s bestselling snow skin mooncakes, includine one infused with the delicate flavours of Moët & Chandon champagne.
The convenience of staying in a city hotel is evident. Connected to The Starhill shopping mall by a short linkway, The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur makes a wonderful base for exploring the area. Aside from luxury boutiques like Audemars Piguet and Balmain, there’s also Eslite, a well-loved bookstore chain from Taiwan.
It’s easy to work up an appetite at The Starhill; dining establishments are aplenty. A highlight is Shook!, which specialises in globally inspired flavours. An interactive kitchen allows diners to see all the action as their dishes are prepared. Grilled on an open coal fire, the satay enak pairs well with the spicy peanut sauce. Another favourite is the Yukibana’s creamy uni pasta, which features sea urchin, scallops, salmon, and spotted shrimps tossed in a creamy yolk-truffle sauce.
After a hearty meal, evenings are best spent nursing a glass of wine at The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur’s Club Lounge. When surrounded by a relaxing atmosphere, whether you’re in the heart of a city or on a private island, time slows down. You can bet I’ll be back.
