Monday, 04 Aug 2025
3pm
Pulled up at Singapore’s Woodlands Train Checkpoint. With suitcase in hand, and nerves buzzing, the Eastern & Oriental (E&O) Express team guided me through customs smoothly. Beyond the gate, a glorious green and gold train waited for me. In an instant, I was transported into an old-world travel poster. I felt more like I was on a movie set than I was on a train.
3.30pm
Located my cabin. All the details—cherry wood panelling on the walls, Thai silk blinds, and throw cushions embroidered with traditional Malaysian-inspired motifs—whispered luxury. After unpacking just enough, I perched by the window as the train eased out of Singapore. The scenery kept calling my name.
4.30pm
Tea was served in porcelain cups, with perfectly folded napkins, and a selection of bites created by Chef André Chiang, who was in charge of our gastronomic journey. From my window seat, the lush vegetation outside, peppered with palm trees and rubber plantations, captivated my eyes.
6.30pm
Back to my cabin to change. Tonight was the big welcome. The dress code for evenings on the E&O Express is glamorous, including gowns, cocktail dresses, and tuxedos.
7pm
Cocktails in the Piano Bar with Wolfgang Eipeldauer, Train Manager, and the other guests. Together, we clinked glasses as we embarked on this adventure.
7.30pm
Dinner in the Malaya, one of the train’s two dining cars, lavishly adorned with velvet, brocade, and plush carpets. As the courses arrived, wine flowed freely. Every dish was a conversation between cultures: refined, surprising, and unforgettable. The snapper was the standout, topped with bright herbaceous greens and reminiscent of Cantonese-style steamed fish but reimagined with a French twist.
10pm
The entertainment continued when we returned to the Piano Bar, with melodious jazz gradually filling the air. The perfect way to end this evening? With an Old Fashioned, of course.
11.30pm
Time for bed. The train hummed into the night, rocking me to sleep. Tomorrow’s adventures awaited.
Tuesday, 05 Aug 2025
7am
Arrived at Merapoh Train Station, the gateway to Taman Negara National Park. I had breakfast in my cabin, with views of rolling limestone hills and lush greenery.
8am
Among several excursion options, I chose a jungle adventure led by a wildlife photographer. On the treetop walk, we spotted a rare hornbill while birdwatching. As we ventured deeper, we also learnt about the jungle’s intricate ecosystem and its fascinating fauna.
12.30pm
Back on board for lunch. I was pleasantly surprised by an unexpected ingredient in the Nicoise Salad: tangy kimchi. Also, I enjoyed a delicious sukiyaki beef udon with dark sticky sauce that reminded me of Malaysian Hokkien Mee.
2pm
As we chugged along through sun-drenched tropical landscapes, I shut my eyes and decided it was time for a nap.
4.30pm
Tea was served in the cabin. Perfect for kicking back with a good book.
7pm
Pre-dinner drinks at the Piano Bar. I chose Ananas Tree from a series of cocktails inspired by East Asian flavours and fruits. As it turned out, it was a pineapple-based drink served in a very-extra gilded pineapple coupe. Well, we were on the E&O Express.
7.30pm
For dinner, every course had locally inspired flavours and was thoughtfully paired with a wine that changed with every service. Despite its clear broth, the Black Chicken Soup’s powerful, peppery heat intensified with each sip.
10pm
My evening ended with a nightcap at the Observation Bar, where karaoke was in full swing, with guests belting out classics like Dancing Queen. I stopped at the observation deck before heading back. The night bustled with shadows of wild foliage swaying as the train pressed through the darkness.
12mn
Back in the cabin, my mind was full of many thoughts, but I could only recall one: how compact and super comfortable this bed was.
Wednesday, 06 Aug 2025
8am
Towards Butterworth, the morning sun gleamed off every gilded detail during breakfast in the Malaya. The indulgent scrambled eggs topped with local caviar was the perfect prelude to our food tour today. Soon afterwards, we left the train and crossed into Penang Island on a ferry.
10am
Excursion day in George Town. The activities were divided by interest. Art lovers zipped through the Old Quarter on Vespas, while those who preferred a slower pace explored on trishaws, maps in hand. They let the city unfold street by street.
10.30am
Like some of the others, I chose to explore Penang’s rich culinary heritage. During our tour, local guides explained how regional ingredients were commonly used in Penang dishes. Pulau Tikus market, or “rat island”, teemed with activity. Aromas of local favourites such as char kway teow and Penang laksa wafted from nearby food stalls. It was a pity we only had time to check out the market before heading up to the Eythrope Penang Hill bungalow for our cooking lesson.
11am
Eythrope offered breathtaking views of Penang. Long tables were set with cooking equipment and fresh ingredients, ready for our lesson, which included three dishes: pani puri, nasi ulam, and jiu hu char (stir-friend jicama with shredded cuttlefish). Local chefs guided our dicing, conversation, tasting, and toasting with crisp wine before we reboarded the train.
1pm
Back on the E&O Express, lunch was served at Adisorn, the other dining car. My eyes were drawn constantly to the beautiful interiors and the attention to detail. The lunch was light but satisfying. As a starter, the delicate vegetable soup with fresh peas, potatoes, baby carrots, and sauerkraut stood out. It was simple, but so well done that all the elements made sense—a reminder of just how good fresh produce can be.
5.30pm
We arrived at the iconic Ipoh Railway Station, a majestic colonial landmark built in 1917 and reminiscent of its rich tin-mining past. Concubine Lane, just seven minutes away, is home to food stalls and trendy little shops. Its quaint atmosphere charmed me, and I snapped away. Note to self: plan a longer visit next time.
7.30pm
At the Piano Bar, Malaysian singer Z Yan and pianist Wilson Jong serenaded us with jazzed-up favourites. The dazzling cheongsam she wore added a touch of old-world charm to the evening.
8pm
The last dinner! I started with a dry martini as the courses arrived. Chiang orchestrated a symphony of flavours, led by a Thai-inspired kaffir lime leaf consomme, bursting with brightness and the punch of a perfect tom yum. The main course, Laksa Bouillabaisse, showcased fresh river prawns, plump mussels, and scallops in a tangy, rich broth. The dessert was a classic creme brulee infused with cardamom; not too sweet and perfectly exemplifying the East-meets-West approach to the food on the train.
10.30pm
Jazz, laughter, and the gentle rumble of the train set the mood for the evening. My companions and I settled into the Piano Bar for drinks, chatting about our adventure aboard the E&O Express. Our train stopped briefly at Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, so we disembarked for photos. Who could forget a group dressed to the nines and cavorting in an empty station? Certainly not me!
Thursday, 07 Aug 2025
8am
Our final breakfast, this time as Johor rolled by. Everyone lingered in the dining car a little longer than usual, reluctant to leave.
10.20am
We crossed the Johor Strait and arrived at the Woodlands Train Checkpoint. As we disembarked, the charming crew lined up to greet us in gracious style. They made sure that we were comfortable and enjoyed our journey to the fullest. Bravo!
11am
With memories racing through my head and the rhythm of the rails echoing in my ears, I began to realise the joy of taking things a little slower by train.
Photography Chia Wei Choong, using the Leica Q3.
