It’s no mean feat being able to craft a look that still stays true to the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent while expanding it and bringing to the now. Yet, it’s something that artistic director Anthony Vaccarello has managed to proffer in the past few collections.
There’s an obvious rejection of current trends on Vaccarello’s part. There hasn’t been a single piece of streetwear-tinged piece or even anything remotely resembling what a younger audience would typically wear. The approach has been a considered aesthetic of elegance brought about by impeccable tailoring, fluid silhouettes and chic-as-hell cuts.
For Saint Laurent’s autumn/winter 2023 womenswear collection, it began with the shoulder. Sculpted and powerful, they were highlighted thanks to Vaccarello’s take on the tailleur-jupe or skirt-suit. Pencil skirts kicked off the runway show paired with cutting oversized blazers that extended shoulders for a highly precise look reminiscent of the power-shouldered 1970s. The blazers were cut to almost the hem of the skirts, enveloping everything layered underneath for an overall look that felt feminine.
Renditions of such moves spilled over throughout the rest of the collection. Low scoop-neck tops were reimagined versions of typically masculine tank tops (or wife-pleasers as they tend to be known now) cut sharply in silks. And in lieu of skirts, trousers were slim to bring attention squarely back to the shoulders.
A key element was the addition of flowy style elements that added further moments of femininity. They came in the form of extended chiffon cloths part of dresses and blouses, or exaggerated bows that adorned a number of looks. Juxtaposed on some of the blazers were the addition of a scarf—either from the same fabric or composed of lighter and at times sheer materials—fixed together with a gold-coloured scarf ring reminiscent of Vaccarello’s favourite use oversized bangles of late.
The use of tartan was a curious choice but here, they were rendered in a lighter feel that visually stripped it of its hardy and more masculine nature.
There’s an overall sense of power imbued to each and every look in the autumn/winter 2023 womenswear collection, no matter if they’re paired with a skirt or trousers.
Perhaps that can also be credited to topping off every look with a pair of sunglasses for that added shroud of mystery and of course, playing on an undeniably Parisian chic trope. But mostly, the power came from the kind of unbridled confidence that can be felt even by watching the show through a screen. That’s something that’s incredibly tough to do.
View the full Saint Laurent autumn/winter 2023 womenswear collection in the gallery below.
