The B.zero1 is known as one of the most iconic expressions of Bulgari’s style. How has the collection contributed to shaping Bulgari’s identity and legacy in the world of jewellery?
B.zero1, with its timeless design at its core, reflects our attention to detail and craftsmanship. Simultaneously, it embodies our inclination toward the future and innovation. The sculptural design of this iconic line, born in 1999 to celebrate the new millennium, merges two hallmarks of Bulgari’s iconography: the Bulgari Bulgari logo engraved along the side, and the Tubogas spiral, realised using an extremely sophisticated technique introduced in the 1940s. Its versatility has allowed us to explore new creative avenues, rendering it one of the most innovative icons in jewellery.
B.zero1 has undergone various design iterations over the years. Can you share specific instances or milestones that exemplify this spirit of experimentation within the collection?
In 2010, for the ring’s tenth anniversary, we collaborated with the renowned artist and sculptor Anish Kapoor. Three years later, we experimented with marble in different colors. And, of course, I need to include the collection designed by Zaha Hadid in 2017, where the waves of the ring flow freely and dynamically. Each creative experimentation pushed our design limits while remaining loyal to the initial aesthetic codes that distinguish the collection.
Can you share some insights into how B.zero1 furthers Bulgari’s commitment to creative exploration and pushing the boundaries of traditional jewellery design?
Since its inception in 1999, B.zero1 has consistently pushed the boundaries of craftsmanship, fearlessly blending the industrial Tubogas technique with the Roman inscription that characterises the Maison’s logo. Over the years, we have introduced variations in volumes and thickness, experimented with colours and materials, ranging from marble to ceramic editions and the B.zero1 Rock with metallic studs on the spiral. Each variation reflects our steadfast vision to innovate and challenge the classic standards of jewellery creation.
As Bulgari’s Jewellery Executive Creative Director, how do you approach the task of preserving the essence of the B.zero1 collection while infusing new elements to keep it relevant for contemporary audiences?
Being audacious and pioneering is ingrained in our DNA. Pushing our limits drives our creativity and expands our horizons. To achieve this, we work tirelessly, constantly innovating ourselves, creating pieces that are versatile and easy to wear in various combinations. This allows our clients to mix products and express their personal style in a unique manner.
What challenges and opportunities do you face in your role when overseeing a collection with such a rich legacy like B.zero1?
The greatest challenge, yet also my proudest achievement, is preserving and transmitting our maison’s DNA into every jewellery creation while simultaneously innovating and incorporating contemporary elements. This duality keeps me energized and in a constant quest for new designs, materials, and combinations. Bulgari Studio highlights our Italian Genius: our ability to think big, look beyond, and set new rules. This passion is what has kept me engaged in the game throughout my 40-year career.
The 2024 novelties focus on the original vision that elevated it to iconic status. Could you discuss the key aesthetic elements that inspired these new interpretations of the classic ring design?
Focusing on the original vision that transformed B.zero1 into an icon, the 2024 novelties draw inspiration from the collection’s key aesthetic elements to introduce new interpretations of the classic design. Adding a radiant touch to the iconic ring, we have introduced a refined diamond pavé set in a wave inside the ring’s edges. In another version, we have entirely covered the main spiral with multi-sized pavé diamonds. Versatility, elegance, and audacity were key elements that inspired the creation of this new collection. These choices are in harmony with the maison’s open-minded creative approach, which is evident in each of our creations. Similarly, with Bulgari Studio, we invite creators to be visionary and ready to explore new territories where experimentation and sharing intertwine.
Which is your favourite B.zero1 design?
I love stacking multiple rings, playing with different sizes, textures, and even mixing diamond pavé with simpler designs, or experimenting with various gold colors. To me, there are no rules when it comes to wearing jewellery. It’s all about expressing your personal style and creating unique combinations that reflect your individuality and mood.
What can we look forward to this year as the collection turns 25 years old?
This year, we proudly unveil Bulgari Studio, a platform dedicated to creative cross-pollination, where diverse fields and disciplines converge. This innovative stage embodies our relentless pursuit of innovation and experimentation, while honoring our rich heritage and distinctive DNA. Bulgari Studio recently made its debut in Seoul, heralding a new era of co-creation. This platform invites contemporary creatives to reimagine iconic collections such as B.zero1, Bulgari Bulgari, and Bulgari Roma handbags. Through multiple activations worldwide, we aim to showcase our commitment to innovation and fearless vision.