Priyam Chatterjee went through 70 names before deciding on Ro.ia for his debut restaurant in Singapore. “It’s a moving river that connects France and Italy. It speaks of journey and travel,” he says. Not only does the name allude to a culinary career that has taken him all over the world, but it also hints at his restaurant being in the epicentre of nature.
Housed in E.J.H. Corner House within Singapore Botanical Gardens, Ro.ia, pronounced “roya”, serves classic French cuisine with global influences. It is the latest fine dining establishment to occupy the historic black and white bungalow that was named after the Gardens’ resident professor Edred John Henry Corner, after the likes of Corner House and Au Jardin.
Seated on the second floor in what the restaurant affectionately calls the “green room”, I take in sprawling views of the lush foliage in aircon comfort. The interior features neutral hues of beige and brown, with natural materials like rattan taking centerstage. This allows the surrounding greenery to truly pop.
Chatterjee, the youngest and the only chef of Indian descent to be awarded the French knighthood Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole, tells us that the restaurant had been three years in the making. Before coming to Ro.ia, Priyam worked with 1-star Michelin chef, Akrame Benallal at AKRAME in Paris and even moved back to India to head two major projects; Rooh and Qla in New Delhi.
At Ro.ia, his deep love for French cuisine shines through, but not without a sense of place thanks to the use of locally sourced ingredients. He owes it to his former mentor, chef Jean-Claude Fugier of the famed three-Michelin-starred La Maison Troisgros, who taught him to cook with passion and precision. His advice to younger chefs? “Stop thinking of doing 20 cuisines at one time. Get into something and then focus on it. Invest four years at least.”
Anchored by a choice of six or eight-course menu, the cuisine at Ro.ia features botanical touches with a storytelling aspect. A trio of snacks arrive to whet my appetite, including the translucent and crunchy Roia toast, made of kudzu or Japanese arrowroot and paired with curried mayo and jamon iberico.
The appetiser, named One Cluny Road to remind diners of the beautiful gardens they’re in, is a refreshingly tropical combination of Australian avocado, green apple, and mango sorbet. “This is our way of encouraging you to start your course with greens. Not everybody likes vegetables, but everyone likes avocado,” quips Chatterjee.
Meanwhile, Snowfall In Singapore offers a fun play of textures, from the softness of diced Hokkaido scallops and the crunch of pear, to the slow melt of yogurt snow. Using local finger lime adds a touch of zest to the dish.
The most photo-worthy dish on the menu, Fungi & Corner is an homage to the late Mr. Corner’s study of fungi. Like a golden orb, a confit egg yolk sits atop a fried potato pancake, surrounded by girolle, mushroom velouté, and floral garnishes. In season truffle shavings were also added to the dish. Unfortunately, the mash-up of rich flavours resulted in the dish tasting like a messy breakfast fry.
The main course, CDG to SIN, piqued my interest. Tender with a perfectly crisp crust, the Maison Burgaud Challandais duck pairs with kinjiso spinach and orange jus to cut through the fats. This dish alone would have been a satisfying finale to the meal, if not for the two desserts that followed. Sweet and juicy, the Sucre featured Charentais melon and sweet basil vinaigrette for a taste of French summer.
At the end of my meal, Chatterjee surprises me with the fact that almond milk is used in all the sauces, to cater better to guest allergies. “There are a lot of limitations from a diner’s perspective such as health restrictions and diet preferences,” he says. He also likes that almond milk is healthier and has a much lighter consistency.
Noticing Jean-Michel Basquiat’s crown motif tattooed on his chest, I asked Chatterjee if his love for art plays a role in his culinary universe. He says, “Art is therapy, and it can calm you down. Cooking is the same. Once you know how to detach yourself from the world, which is the hard part, you’ve learned that.”
