Women everywhere want to dress like Phoebe Philo, or at least in the clothes she makes. And women in Singapore can do so more easily now with shipping available here. Australia, Hong Kong, Japan, and Korea are the other chosen few regions.
After leaving the spotlight for six years, British designer Phoebe Philo is officially back in fashion with the debut of her eponymous label backed by LVMH. Philophiles have been rabidly waiting (and saving up) for Philo’s namesake brand ever since the announcement in 2021.
In late October, the designer returned to the virtual world with the launch of her website anchored in her artfully honed aesthetic: grainy images of languidly posed models, sprawled legs, and structured clothing.
Christened A1, the collection would be released in several edits from then through to December. With quiet luxury in the forefront of fashion, little wonder this generated positive reviews.
The Philo Woman
Philo worked closely with Stella McCartney at Chloe as an assistant after graduating from Central Saint Martins. She later assumed the role of creative director at Chloe from 2001 to 2006, transforming it into a commercial success.
A carefree feminine spirit revitalised the brand and saw Philo’s padlock-embellished Paddington and Edith satchels become It bags.
Retrospectively, this early stage in her career solidified her approach to fashion: the woman comes first, then the clothes that speak for themselves. This ethos guided her tenure as Celine’s creative director for 11 years until 2018, emphasising practicality and comfort.
Under her leadership, the dust-gathering French heritage brand became known for offering clothes that women wanted. Celine made everyday utilitarianism fashionable, desirable, intellectual, and sexy, regardless of age, winning the hearts of many Philophiles, including myself. Collections were punctuated with sensuality and classiness, flaunting sharp tailoring.
From Yves Klein dresses to Phantom ‘Luggage’ Totes, Philo proved that a minimalist wardrobe has staying power. Workwear could double up as smart casual and come in a
riot of colours. Think pale yellow jumpsuits, khaki trenches, and multi-coloured foulard silk shirts.
From 2008 to 2017, Celine raked in 800 million euros (S$1.14 billion) a year. It was quite impressive, given that Philo had set out to create “things that could stand the test of time”. More significantly, however, was the design language she established.
It was so influential that it trickled down to her pupils: Daniel Lee (Burberry), Matthieu Blazy (Bottega Veneta), and Peter Do (formerly Helmut Lang). These kindred spirits have adapted and maintained Philo’s aesthetic philosophy through their runways in recent years.
One Step Ahead, Three Steps Back
Given her reputation, it’s not surprising to see that her tailored trousers, heeled loafers, and accessories sold out when her website went live. Within a few hours, fashion aficionados snapped up most of the 150 pieces available. Philo’s offerings, however, gave the impression that she’s playing it safe with familiar silhouettes and a neutral palette.
Even though her asymmetric scarf-tops, square-toed pumps, and high-neck sweaters are chic, they are hard to buy into—much less fall in love with—with their exorbitant price tags. Furthermore, when all one has to go by is an online image, it’s hard to justify caving in for a piece of Philo’s quiet luxury.
Also, it would seem that there are only three ways to wear Phoebe Philo today: if you can afford to spend several thousands on a seemingly capacious leather tote, fit within a restricted size range, and live in the UK, Europe, or the US.
Besides the outrageous prices, Philo’s new direction distances her from the conventional fashion calendar. Operating on her own terms, she has created her version of what a collection is: a series of “edits” labelled A1 to A3, released in small quantities.
Philo may be starting with no less than four figures per piece because of this model of producing less to balance production and demand. Its lack of diversity and barriers to accessibility, however, may alienate even the most ardent Philophiles.
With many similar, more affordable designs today, Philo’s return begs the question: does she bring something new? In today’s climate, showing bare ageing skin is no longer a radical proposition. Nevertheless, it’s a necessary message from a female designer in an androcentric field.
How Philo builds a new world that is distinctive from her contemporaries and earlier work will determine where the brand goes next. Thanks to her cult following and aesthetic sensibilities, it does have the potential to push the limits of minimalist fashion today. Taking a deeper look at what contemporary women need now could also lead to a breakthrough for her.
Nevertheless, if old habits die hard, Philo’s brand could become an echo chamber of references to a past that doesn’t speak to the present. Numerous Philophiles have already discovered the essence of Philo in The Row, Loewe, Khaite, and an endless list of others. It is likely sentimentality and loyalty that are enticing them back to Philo now, but these are temporary forces of attraction.
Phoebe Philo’s next collection, A2, drops in Spring 2024.
This article was updated 15 November 2024. Images courtesy of phoebephilo.com.
