It didn’t need to be an outright proclamation (there was no such thing in the collection notes), but there was a strong presence of the late Dame Vivienne Westwood’s influence on the Moschino autumn/winter 2023 womenswear runway. From the punk hairpieces to the styling of feminine, outré gowns with seemingly disparate elements, the collection felt like an homage to Westwood.
True, creative director Jeremy Scott may have just wanted to touch on his idea of punk fashion for autumn/winter 2023. But Westwood is almost synonymous with the genre in mainstream fashion that it’s difficult to separate the two. Whatever the case, it was a testament to how influential Westwood was and continues to be in fashion.
The Moschino autumn/winter 2023 womenswear collection was a combination of surrealist artist Salvador Dalí artistry with that of aristo-punk aesthetics (one that Westwood pretty much embodied).
With Scott, the interpretations are always almost campy and it rang true once again with undulating, curvy hems and trims directly translated from Dalí’s drooping clocks and bodies, further highlighted by the collection’s prints and patterns that embody the twisted effect. Houndstooth patterns were quite beautifully liquefied and even peace sign pendants were rendered in the same melting treatment (what is peace even in this day and age?).
The Dalí-esque portion then transitioned even more towards a punk revelation—heightened by leather and spikes before spilling over with a smattering of bejewelled decadence. But of course, true to the punk spirit, they were unexpectedly challenged in forms and energy.
There was a decidedly royal climax to the entire collection towards the end. Eveningwear felt royal with ballgowns and heavily embellished gowns evoked a spirit of a rebellious royal, one who refuses to conform to any sort of established rules—quite like Scott himself; and by default, Westwood.
View the full Moschino autumn/winter 2023 womenswear collection in the gallery below.
