Omakases are aplenty in this city state that’s grown a fondness for Japanese cuisine. However, not many are helmed by a celebrity chef, especially one who’s the son of master sushi chef Tokio Hashida of the famed Hashida Sushi in Tokyo, Japan.
Hashida Singapore is the brainchild of chef Kenjiro ‘Hatch’ Hashida. After several moves over the course of its almost a decade of operations, Hashida Singapore has formed new roots at Amoy Street with a design concept that’s wholly conceived by chef Hatch himself. He typically splits his time between here and Japan and has entrusted head chef Yasuda Itaru to helm the restaurant in his absence.
Chef Itaru comes across as the typical stoic sushi chef—unflinching in focus while preparing every course of the lunch that I was treated with. He’s a well-oiled machine with 29 years of culinary experience including at Hashida Tokyo, and moves with extreme finesse without missing a beat.
The first dish (of many courses; typical of omakases) was a delicate plating of starters that featured a mouthful of ikura topped with caviar, snow crab meat wrapped with pickled daikon radish, and grilled butterfish with Saikyo miso and garnished with rosemary. I’m not exactly a big fan of ikura but that hit of caviar helped to balance out the taste and texture well.
Cold chawanmushi came next. It’s not uncommon for chawanmushi to be served cold, yet its unique interpretation is what one has come to expect from chef Hatch’s non-traditional approach to Japanese cuisine. Topped with Japanese asparagus and cut cherry tomatoes, the hidden surprise of scallops embedded within the custard gave meaty weight to the otherwise light dish.
Photo: Hashida Singapore.
The sashimi platter was a fresh selection of water octopus, Japanese sea bass, and otoro. There’s no doubt that Hatch relies on top quality ingredients in everything that he does and it’s something that can’t be faked with sashimi. The personal highlight here, however, was the accompaniment of shaved wasabi skin with soya sauce—a pairing I would now like to have with every sashimi and/or sushi.
The sushis that followed—there were seven of them beginning with horse mackerel and finished off with belt fish—were plated in quick succession. The flounder aburi was an easy favourite. The charred portions were done right before plating by Itaru with a piece of hot coal, adding that hint of smokiness for an elevated flavour profile. The botan ebi, a fatty helping of prawn, too was a hit.
Dessert is hardly ever the main point of an omakase experience. Because why bother when what matters is the quality and freshness of the dishes leading up to it. Yet, the simplicity of a Japanese musk melon was a much appreciated semi-end to the entire meal. It was followed by a helping of cassata made with mascarpone cheese, served together with a mango citrus sorbet atop shredded green papaya, green mango and cucumber—a heavenly combination.
The new dinner menu is a bit more robust with even more of chef Hatch’s innovative concoctions. But if you’re new to Hashida Singapore, the lunch menu is perfect to start with.
Hashida Singapore is also ramping up on its sustainability efforts. Chef Hatch has been more mindful of his sourcing, collaborating with eco-conscious organisations in Japan to explore how this can be best achieved without compromising on quality.
“With food systems and natural resources eroding yearly due to natural disasters and inclement weather, I believe it is meaningful to ensure that our produce—whether farmed or cultivated—can remain top quality. It will take time but it’s a step in the right direction, given the hazards and pollution rife among both land and sea,” he says.
Photo: Hashida Singapore.
It’s a telling sign that during my weekday lunch visit to Hashida Singapore, the establishment was almost packed. I’ve been told many times that it’s not particularly easy to score a seat; now I know why.
