Creative director Maximilian Davis—the young Black designer who was given the keys to Ferragamo in 2022—presented his second collection for the autumn/winter 2023 season with nods to cinema. Founder Salvatore Ferragamo founded the brand and gained popularity for building connections within the film industry—Davis sought to take those early cinema references and propel them into the future.
“It’s how Ferragamo started, making shoes for films in the 1930s, and that grew into building relationships with movie stars like Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s. I was interested in using their glamour and beauty, and their way of dressing, as a reference, but looking at how we could make it feel modern for today,” expresses Davis in the collection notes.
The result was a cutting ready-to-wear that focused on streamlined cuts and tailoring that alluded to the era—cocoon-cut inspired by 1950s couture applied onto shirting, select knits and outerwear, as well as double-faced tailoring that exuded an almost retro-futuristic feel.
But some sort of subliminal messaging was at play at Ferragamo’s autumn/winter 2023 runway show. Like subtle product placements in film, Davis seemed to have cleverly reiterated the significance of the colour red with Ferragamo. It’s by no means the first time that Davis had included red looks or elements in a Ferragamo collection—his first included multiple red looks. But for autumn/winter 2023, they felt more intentional. Or perhaps, a case of: the more you see something, the more it leaves an impression.
While the collection started out rather monochromatic with black, navy and cream, reds concentrated the middle of the line-up.
Kicking off with a full ensemble of red, the colour was then used as hidden details and inflections. A leather coord was designed with zippers that exposed to reveal red, a black men’s suit was purposely slashed for hints of red that became even more visible with movement, and other clever details that all served as a constant reminder of the connection between red and Ferragamo. And when you think that the red parade was over, look 61’s red lamé minidress cued the senses once again, before bakelite accessories sealed the deal.
Davis’ interpretation of the Wanda bag—now available in boutiques and sure to be a big push—took on new forms and sizes too, all featuring the more subtle Gancini buckles that modernises the iconic motif. The intentional shrinking of the motif as well as the lack of monogram-like patterns, helped to give off and old money aesthetic, further elevating the collection and in turn, Ferragamo.
Considering that this was only Davis second outing, the aesthetic for his vision of Ferragamo is clear: chic, chic, and chic. Who needs more when less seems best by Davis?
View the full Ferragamo autumn/winter 2023 collection in the gallery below.
