A quick glance at the monochromatic and relatively muted autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection by Fendi, and one would assume that artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi felt the need for a serious, moody collection. Yet, that’s entirely not the case.
There was an overall sense of freedom of movement throughout the entire collection. It was brought about by a collective lightness in both fabrication as well as construction. Draped cashmere was a repeated motif, slung over a shoulder like a casual expression with the trompe l’œil effect of looking like one-half of a lapel-less jacket.
The toga-like device was replicated on the autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection’s most outré pieces—one-shoulder cashmere jumpers and tops. They may look out of place individually (what a way to keep warm, right?), but layered under outerwear, create a visual interest in an outfit that exudes just the right hint of raucousness. It’s definitely an unexpected element and one that’s reminiscent of spring/summer 2022 menswear’s severely slashed and cropped blazers and tops.
While the one-shoulder pieces perhaps won’t be the most practical fashion items given the season, but they exemplify the kind of irreverent playfulness that Silvia adopts now and then. These continued with sheer, almost skin-like interpretations of cashmere. They were visibly so finely crafted that they were barely noticeable, if not for the slight sheen of colour enveloping the frame.
The height of Silvia’s playful tendencies for the autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection came in the form of shearling baguettes. And no, I’m not referring to the Fendi icons that celebrated its 25th anniversary last year—although there were multi-pocketed iterations on the runway that you might want to look into—but rather, actual baguette-shaped accessories.
The first (look 30) was carried under the elbow like one would an actual baguette and is designed to specifically fit one. The other (look 32) is a crossbody version made to carry an umbrella; an actual baguette too won’t be out of the question though.
Fendi’s autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection was a reminder that Silvia—and by definition, Fendi—can be playful at times. It’s not necessarily reflected collection after collection but the youthful exuberance is expressed, whenever it occurs, is a gem for a storied luxury fashion house like Fendi.
Perhaps, the one-shoulder pieces would be a tough sell in the commercial sense. But with the comfort-first constructions and pieces such as the playful jumpers with slots right at the neckline to hold down shirt collars, Silvia proves that she knows how to balance creativity with commercial appeal.
View the complete Fendi autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection in the gallery below.
