Dior Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture: 9 A+ Looks

The walls at the Dior spring/summer 2023 haute couture venue were covered floor to ceiling with images of iconic Black women. From Eartha Kitt to Dorothy Dandridge, these works of art—by African-American artist Mickalene Thomas and further embroidered by the Chanakya ateliers and Chanakya School of Craft in India—formed the base of the collection’s inspiration. Central to that was Josephine Baker, the African-American singer who moved to Paris in the 1920s and was a personal friend of Monsier Dior.

Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri had prior experience in creating a piece inspired by Baker once. It was back in 2021 for the Met Gala where Dior ambassador Yara Shahidi wanted to pay homage to the late trailblazer. But for the spring/summer 2023 haute couture collection, it was both a masterclass in Dior heritage as well as tapping into the period of Baker’s popularity.

Of course, there were the iconic Dior silhouettes consisting of the Bar jacket and flared skirts made using the masculine fabrications favoured by the house. But there were also moments of tenderness and soft, feminine façade that Baker had exuded.

The runway show opened with a boudoir-esque number: a smocked satin swimsuit layered under a silk velvet robe. It was something straight out of that era but modern in proportions. Followed that were examples of Chiuri’s consistent display of borrowing and referencing without veering towards costume-y. Flapper-inspired pieces were reduced to more delicate expressions of the style but no less impressive. Fringes moved harmoniously with the body in gold and silver as though they were feather-like in weight.

The collection’s finale of velvet dresses were quite stunning too. Inspired by Baker lounging backstage in her dressing room, these dresses were crushed and crumpled to resemble that similar effect of being worn and lounged in.

Most importantly, for a collection inspired by the elegance and style of Baker, there’s no doubt that every piece in the collection felt like something Baker could wear today if she were alive. And that, ladies and gents, makes the collection one for the books.

View the full Dior spring/summer 2023 haute couture collection in the gallery below.

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