A Viktor & Rolf couture show is as much about the atmosphere as it is the peak of couture excellence and creativity. But even more than that, the Dutch duo’s couture creations have always spoke to the sign of the times—semi-political statements often done in cheeky, baffling ways.
The Viktor & Rolf spring/summer 2023 runway show was no different. Held in the Intercontinental Paris – Le Grand’s Opera Ballroom—an impressive venue that’s reminiscent of the interiors of old European palaces complete with mirrored walls and a massive central chandelier—it was a rather intimate affair that further exuded the throwback to how couture used to be presented.
The first three looks came out in succession. And to be honest, there was nothing exceedingly exceptional about each one. The silhouette was fairly traditional fit-and-flare ballgowns that wouldn’t look out of place in a typical fairytale retelling. Or for prom. They were princess-like and in single-hued tulle creations; beautiful pieces but were nothing quite like what one would expect from Viktor & Rolf.
Then the fourth look came out. From where I was positioned, it looked like yet another ballgown. But as the model turned, it was then that I realised that she wasn’t technically wearing the gown—the bodice seemed to float away from her body.
The idea behind Viktor & Rolf’s spring/summer 2023 haute couture collection is one that questions the narrow ideal of beauty and of couture. Interspersed throughout the collection were similar pieces that defied gravity in more ways than one.
Some, like look 4, featured a splitting of the gown into two, while some (looks 6 and 12) had the gowns floating asymmetrically at almost 45-degree angles. Top personal highlights include look 9 where the optical illusion was heightened such that the floating gown provided a look into its construction in Death Becomes Her fashion. Look 11 too was a personal favourite, with the gown walking alongside the model without much of a visible support construction, yet still provided a trompe l’œil effect at certain angles. And of course, the look that has made the rounds on social media: look 15.
The collection felt like a statement—women don’t need and are refusing to subscribe to the old-fashioned notions of couture (and fashion in general). They’re moving away from such conventions after centuries of being told what to wear and how to look beautiful by mostly men.
It’s a powerful statement and one that underscores the level of creativity beyond craftsmanship that Viktor & Rolf possesses.
View the full Viktor & Rolf spring/summer 2023 haute couture collection in the gallery below.
