There are fashion festivals in Asia, and then there was the inaugural Hong Kong Fashion Fest, held between 20 November and 4 December last year. It featured rising designers, cutting-edge creativity, and cultural synergy.
In addition to an exciting itinerary of presentations, exhibitions, workshops, and summits, it established Hong Kong as Asia’s fashion capital with its focus on innovation, sustainability, craftsmanship, and collaboration.
Virtuose: The Artistry of Couture stood out among the line-up. Its presentation wasn’t just about luxury dressmaking; rather, the designers showed how incorporating cultural perspectives has helped elevate and redefine their craft. Meet the fabulous four here.
BENCHELLA
The Netherlands
Mohamed Benchella’s striking silhouettes evoke old-world elegance through a modern prism. His beautifully crafted dresses are favourites among celebrities and royalty.
The Dutch-Moroccan designer creates sculptural pieces from dead stock materials that recall Balenciaga and Dior’s sumptuous volumes. As part of his collection, Benchella designed one-offs from neoprene, a spongy fabric that lent full skirts a natural structure without the need for fussy petticoats or can-cans. With its abbreviated format, this gave the collection a graphic, contemporary vibe.
CHARLES DE VILMORIN
France
At just 23, Charles de Vilmorin established his eponymous fashion label and captured social media attention with his dreamy, hand-painted looks in 2020. This poetic spirit continues to define his couture collection, which he launched in 2021.
The same year, he became Creative Director at Rochas. His Hong Kong line-up burst forth with bold hues and patterns. Among several tops that encircle the arms, one features feathers around the shoulder line to create a fiery frame. A dress in inky satin features wayward ruffles on the bodice for a dramatic fluttering effect that plays up the sheen of the fabric. de Vilmorin’s confections won’t appeal to everyone, but he’s having fun. And we like that.
CHENEY CHAN
China
Chinese couture designer Cheney Chan combines meticulous craftsmanship with a romantic aesthetic. Established in 2012, the brand delves deeply into traditional Chinese culture to create its exquisite evening wear.
Effortless dresses highlight the feminine figure and draw inspiration from porcelain bottlenecks. A signature Feng Ya Qi silhouette featuring a cinched waist and rounded hem, is both sensual and sculptural. Chan’s transformable pieces are also designed to maximise versatility. A bustier frock includes a removable embellished band around the bust, allowing wearers to dress it up or down. Similarly, a minidress with a feather-adorned bustier can be unzipped to become a simple shift.
KAY KWOK
Hong Kong
Kwok, who launched his eponymous label in 2013, was the first Hong Kong designer to showcase at London Fashion Week. Known for his futuristic vision and experimental approach, his collection features 3D-printed components.
An aggressive, horn-like spike frames a dress with a scooped neckline, while a leather jacket boasts oversized gold scales running down each arm. Having graduated from London College of Fashion with a master’s in menswear, Kwok is passionate about tailoring. In his collection, he offers blazers with exaggerated shoulders, floor-length coat dresses featuring asymmetric hems and bold graphic seams, and jackets with strategic cut-outs that celebrate the female form.
