It takes a delicate balance between innovation and reverence to reinvent an institution like Cherry Garden. Since opening in 1987 at Mandarin Oriental, Singapore, this Cantonese restaurant continues to cater to evolving times and tastes. Its latest refresh in July goes beyond enhancing the dining experience; it enriches a culinary legacy.
It has also been renamed Cherry Garden by Chef Fei. One of China’s most celebrated chefs, Chaoshan-born Fei is a chef-consultant for Mandarin Oriental properties across Bangkok, Beijing, Jakarta, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen. His sublime Cantonese dishes for Jiang by Chef Fei at Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou have earned him two Michelin stars and a Diamond in the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide.
Fei’s strategy for steering Cherry Garden into the future is to introduce new influences without losing sight of its roots. “The traditional Cantonese cooking techniques and flavours of Cherry Garden cannot be diminished with the new concept,” he elaborates. “They need to be enhanced with quality ingredients and different cooking techniques.”
While continuing to be based in Guangzhou, he has delved deep into his culinary philosophy that focuses on techniques, ingredients, passion, and experience to refine the menu and train the staff at Cherry Garden. The kitchen is helmed by Chef de Cuisine Steven Luo, also from Guangzhou.
“In my culinary ethos, I believe the soul of every dish lies in seasonality and freshness,” says Fei, whose career spans more than 30 years. “The controlling of heat, the double-boiling technique, and other traditional methods reflect the intricacy of each dish, from precise skills and attention to every stage of cooking, to constant refinement.”
This kind of attention to detail is evident in dishes like Boneless Crucian Carp Congee, in which each fine bone has been carefully removed by hand so diners can enjoy the delicate flesh without distraction.
The Crispy Pork with Sweet and Sour Sauce, a Cantonese classic reimagined with a Dongbei twist, is another standout on the menu. Drawing from the style of Guo Bao Rou, it features thinly sliced lean pork, fried to a crisp and enveloped in a house-made sweet and sour sauce.
Wok-fried Australian Lobster with Basil and Pickled Mustard Greens, meanwhile, is a tribute to Fei’s Chaoshan roots. It offers a clever play on contrast, bringing together the natural sweetness of lobster, the herbal depth of basil, and the tang of pickled greens in a savoury, aromatic broth.
At the heart of Fei’s craft is his utmost respect for ingredients. “The essence of good cooking lies in the natural sweetness drawn from fresh ingredients, something no technique can replicate. It’s not about the monetary value of an ingredient, but its freshness.”
We’ll have seconds, please.
