In the watchmaking lexicon, the word iconic is used far too frequently—and sometimes, undeservedly. There is, however, no other way to describe Bulgari’s Serpenti watch. Its style is truly unique. Shaped like a snake, it functions like a jewel but also tells the time. Antoine Pin, managing director for Bulgari Horlogerie, calls it “arguably the most iconic of jewellery watches”.
Photo: Bulgari.
Pin was in Singapore for the LVMH Watch Week during which Bulgari unveiled an impressive collection of ladies’ timepieces. The highlight was the Serpenti Tubogas Infinity, the latest evolution of the brand’s cherished Serpenti. A symbol of perpetual renewal, it has taken on numerous forms over the last 75 years, starting with the Serpenti Tubogas jewellery watches in the late 1940s.
With its beautifully articulated form resembling a coiled snake, it consists of a long and thin metal strip wrapped around a steel spring blade. With no hinges or welding required, it is a stunning example of Bulgari’s craftsmanship and innovation.
However, despite its ingenuity, it had one unfortunate drawback: the thin metal structure made gem setting impossible. “It’s a terrible paradox. This is the essence of a jewellery watch… but you can’t even set it!” Pin exclaims
After 75 years, the new Serpenti Tubogas Infinity is about to change everything.
“This watch feels like it has always been part of the collection, right? It doesn’t feel like it’s new,” says Pin. Indeed, with its gleaming coiled form and drop-shaped case, the Serpenti Tubogas Infinity looks comfortingly familiar.
But as you stare longer, you’ll see a shimmer of diamonds extending from the case to the bracelet’s end—a feat that’s never been done before.
Bulgari’s watchmakers achieved the seemingly impossible by designing a new bracelet made entirely of individually molded rings that were polished and gem-set before being assembled on titanium blades.
Pin shares that perhaps the greatest challenge was not the execution of the bracelet but a change of mindset that took years and years of brainwashing. “To make the bracelet completely new, we had to rethink its design. The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity is a great example of how we expand our expertise by bringing more jewellery spirit to our iconic watch, so much so that many people believe it has always existed.”
There is a cost to this innovation. Due to the increased use of gold, customers can expect to pay about 15 percent more compared to those made using the traditional technique. “Fundamentally, if you think about it, it’s the weight of gold that is justifying this extra cost. So it is more expensive, but it’s also more valuable,” Pin explains.
Although the watch is initially offered in two versions, with a single or double tour bracelet, the technique invites endless creativity. “That is why it is called Infinity. As a result of our know-how, we opened a completely new chapter based on this new technique,” says Pin, hinting at the possibility of using other gemstones and materials in the near future.
