No matter which century or culture you look at, the snake has been a beloved motif of artists and artisans, seeing as the themes of sensuality, transformation, healing and wisdom make for enduring fodder for the makers of beautiful things. Among jewellers, no other has embraced the reptile as wholeheartedly—or successfully—as Bulgari.
The brand’s famous Serpenti watch made its first appearance in 1948. Using the Tubogas, or “gas pipe”, technique inspired by an ancient method of jewellery-making dating back to Roman times, Bulgari created a flexible, coiling bracelet that ended in a watch face that represented the snake’s head. Its evolution led to increasingly lavish variations, and when Elizabeth Taylor wore one encrusted with diamonds and emeralds on the set of Cleopatra, the Serpenti’s popularity soared. Today, the Serpenti collection includes watches, rings, bracelets and earrings, with a new generation of stars like Zendaya, Cara Delevingne and Dua Lipa counting among its fans.
The Serpenti celebrates its 75th anniversary this year, but it wouldn’t be enjoying its current mass desirability if Bulgari hadn’t internalised the snake’s metaphor for constant transformation. Feeling bold? Opt for a dramatic five-coil bracelet with precious metal scales set with gemstones. Want something for daily wear? Stick with a basic steel Tubogas. This year, Bulgari’s engineers finally figured out how to set diamonds directly into the coils themselves for those who want something in-between. There is a Serpenti for every whim.
Photo: Bulgari.
This ability to adapt to changing tastes is what the Bulgari Serpenti: 75 years of infinite tales exhibition celebrates. Previously held in Milan’s Piazza del Duomo in 2021 and then in London’s Saatchi Gallery last November, it is now being held at the Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum in Madrid.
From now till 16 April, visitors can admire a curated selection of Serpenti creations both historic (dating back to the 1940s) and new. But before you race to the dazzling display, the museum proposes first a tour of 16 of its paintings relating to the themes that define Bulgari. Namely: femininity, sensuality, luxury and charisma. The selected paintings, which come from the 15th to 20th centuries, all have snakes hidden in them, teasing visitors to try and find them all.
Photo: Bulgari.
Guests will eventually be led to the exhibition and welcomed by an AI-developed fragrance named “Rainforest Serpenti”. The exhibition is divided into four parts. “A universal symbol” explores the roots of the snake as an ancient sign, while “The birth of an icon” tells the story of how Bulgari adopted it as one of its most iconic motifs.
“Serpenti Blue Heaven” is dedicated to the one-of-a-kind high jewellery necklace and matching earrings created especially for the anniversary, and named for the sky blue colours of the Blue Heaven’s tanzanites, aquamarines, and sapphires. Finally, “An infinite metamorphosis” illustrates the serpent’s ability to undergo perpetual refinement and change, resulting in a diverse range of timepieces and jewellery.
The exhibition also showcases the work of Turkish-American media artist Refik Anadol, whose award-winning style uses data as his primary material. With a desire to challenge traditional notions of architecture, narrative and motion, his AI-derived work has resulted in sculptures, paintings, performances and installations that encourage us to rethink our relationship with the physical world and the creative potential of machines. For the world of Serpenti, Anadol trained algorithms via machine learning on over 200 million images of nature to create the exhibition’s colourful and vibrantly textured digital panels.
This won’t be the last time Bulgari is teaming up with artists. As part of the anniversary celebrations, Bulgari has announced the Serpenti Factory, an artistic initiative that puts the snake at the forefront of inspiration. Contemporary artists like Davide Quayola, Daniel Rozin, Sougwen Chung and Cate M. are part of the lineup that will create exclusive art dedicated to the Serpenti collection. Throughout 2023, the Serpenti Factory will be travelling across the world and showcasing the work of local artists.
“For 75 years Bulgari has shown its audacious creativity, ingenious craftsmanship and modern spirit through its emblematic Serpenti creations inspired by the jewels of Cleopatra, in a Rome of more than 2000 years ago,” said Bulgari Group CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. “They convey endless tales, artistry and empowerment. It expanded the boundaries of jewellery, reflecting the spirit of confident women and entering the world of art through exciting creative collaborations. It was and is the ultimate Bulgari icon of endless metamorphosis.”
