Buccellati, the storied Italian jeweller, creates more than jewellery—it crafts heirlooms that channel the past into the 21st century. Anchored in the splendour of Renaissance goldsmith traditions, each piece reverberates with history, echoing Venetian lace and Baroque damasks reimagined in precious metal.
Since Mario Buccellati established the house in 1919, its hallmark has been the intricate engraving that transforms gold and silver into fabric-like textures. Distinctive strokes define each piece, creating metals that eschew a polished sheen for an ethereal, matte glow known as the “silky effect”.
All of the brand’s creations, from the most understated rings to the most elaborate necklaces, bear these unique marks thanks to the various engraving techniques. The magic lies in the mastery of the burin, a tool as timeless as the craft itself. Each cut must be precise, and the angle has to be exact.
Even a degree of deviation risks disrupting the delicate dance of light and shadow. The result is captivating when executed flawlessly, leading to a textured elegance that whispers luxury.
Complemented by vibrant gemstones, Buccellati pieces transcend simple adornment. Each creation boasts the artisans’ unparalleled skill and dedication to techniques safeguarded through generations. To choose a Buccellati jewel is to embrace more than indulgence; it’s to hold a fragment of art history that combines nostalgia with timeless grace.
Woven Radiance
The Macri collection stands as a luminous testament to Italian craftsmanship at its most exquisite. Conceived nearly 40 years ago by Gianmaria Buccellati as a tribute to his daughter Maria Cristina, it distils the house’s artistic legacy into pieces of enduring elegance. Central to its allure is the rigato engraving—a tedious technique where parallel lines, etched with a burin, create a luminous, silk-like texture on gold reminiscent of haute couture’s tactile luxury.
Each piece is a testament to a tradition of goldsmithing that dates to the 18th century, where craftsmanship and ingenuity elevate jewellery to the realm of art. What began with a singular cuff bracelet has blossomed into exquisite reinterpretations, such as Macri AB, adorned with diamond-set floral motifs framed in white gold, and Macri Giglio, where the timeless symbolism of lilies lends a poetic lightness.
Both lines exemplify the house’s dedication to combining tradition with innovation, with designs inspired by the architectural grandeur of Venice and the enduring beauty of natural forms.
Delicate Lace
The Buccellati Tulle line is a masterful homage to the elegance of lace and the artistry of the Renaissance. Conceived by Mario Buccellati, this iconic design drew its inspiration from the delicate geometry of Venetian lace, with pentagonal cells reminiscent of honeycombs.
The interplay of structure and airiness captivated Mario, inspiring him to translate these qualities into gold. At the heart of the Tulle collection lies unparalleled craftsmanship: gold is transformed into an ethereal, filigree-like fabric so delicate it seems to flutter in the breeze.
This technique is a hallmark of Buccellati’s artistry and has been preserved through generations, perfected by master artisans devoted to perfecting their craft. It features in collections such as Opera, where gold plates as fine as 1mm are pierced by hand to create silhouettes of branches and leaves adorned with delicate diamonds. Owning one of these precious lace-like designs is to possess a wearable sculpture that transcends time. It is a testament to Mario Buccellati’s visionary spirit and the house’s commitment to craftsmanship.
Stellar Performance
Inspired by the symmetrical beauty of flowers and iconic architectural elements from landmarks such as the dome of the church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane in Rome and the rose window at Roccolo Castle, Buccellati’s Opera collection captures the essence of art that transcends time. The collection’s central motif draws inspiration from the grandeur of opera houses, with the name Opera evoking the timeless arias of Italian composers like Verdi, Rossini, and Bellini.
It pays homage to the house’s Milanese origins, where Buccellati was founded in 1919, and its enduring connection with La Scala opera house. With sinuous, flowing lines and harmonious forms, the designs incorporate alternating solids and voids to create striking visual effects.
Among the sub-collections, Opera Tulle features the radial tulle layer, a hallmark of Buccellati, either enhanced with ornamental stones or left unset to highlight the lightness and transparency of the tulle. The collection’s intricate enamelling—reviving the traditions of the Greeks and Romans—adds a layer of richness, elevating each piece with vivid hues that play against the precious metal base.
In Opera Premium, Buccellati added diamonds to the iconic logo. The radial tulle remains a defining feature, while the central diamond, set in white gold, adds a luxurious focal point. The Opera Maxi line expands on these themes, magnifying the logo and blending it with tulle workmanship for a dramatic effect that maintains Buccellati’s signature elegance and discretion.
As for the Opera Galileo pendant, dedicated to the famed scientist, concentric gold elements rotate along an axis, creating a kinetic effect that mirrors the cosmos. This pendant, available with or without diamonds, reflects the fluidity of the stars and the brilliance of Galileo Galilei’s genius.
